Project WTH?

Got my front end installed.  My buddy and I also installed the DIY ghetto lip.  I thought the $20 for the garage door seal, 3M emblem tape, and some auto trim screws would be worth it to keep from scrapping the bottom of the airdam.

Oh the carnage!!


Looking better...


Finished...





I have fixed the left headlight.

Later, Doug

An Xtreme kit in pewter will definitely be interesting.  Front end looks good so far.

I've seen a xtreme kitted extended cab in pewter down here.  looks pretty sharp. 

I thought it was just a stock x...then i remembered they didn't come in pewter.

A very small update.

I got a pair of used 275/40-17 Dunlop SP Sport 9000 tires for free yesterday.  I just need another pair of tires and a pair of 1.5" spacers and I'll be able to run my 17" wheels in the spring.

Later, Doug

A very small update.

I got a pair of used 275/40-17 Dunlop SP Sport 9000 tires for free yesterday.  I just need another pair of tires and a pair of 1.5" spacers and I'll be able to run my 17" wheels in the spring.

Later, Doug

i have some 17s in the basement 

Another small update.

I've been going to the Pull-A-Part yard on what seems like a weekly or semi-weekly basis lately.  A couple weeks ago I spotted a 3rd Gen Trans am and noticed it has 16" rims.  "Hmm", I thought.  The steering lock was broke so I was able to count the turns.  I checked it about 3 times.  2.5 turns lock-to-lock....sweet!  I went the week after for another part and again stopped by the Trans Am.  Counted the turns again.  "I need to grab that steering box. Nah, if the wife finds out, she'll lecture me about how I bought something I don't need and didn't fix something that was broken."

Well, this week I went back because the had a new '98 S10 in the yard and I wanted to see if it was a ZQ8 (it wasn't.)  I again went back to the Trans Am.  Turned it from lock-to-lock a few more times.  For whatever reason I started checking other 3rd Gen F-bodies.  I finally came to a Camaro that had the badges removed but I did find the RPO codes.  I found a F41 which I vaguely recalled was an upgrade supsension package.  The steering column wasn't locked so I played "count the turns."  1...2....2.25.  What? That can't be right! Try it again....1...2....2.25.  Grr!!  I had to screw up counting or something.  Well after about 5 more times of counting 2.25 turns, I decided that I couldn't hold off any longer on buying a steering box even though I won't install it until Spring.   

So 1.5 hours later, after having to cut the centerlink with a hacksaw, where the balljoint was connected to the pitman arm, I got my 2.25 turn steering box for less than $37 out the door with a useless pitman arm. NOTE: if you plan on removing a steering box in a junkyard bring some sort of balljoint seperator or pitman arm puller as it will save you a lot of arm ache, time, and some $$ because you might not have to pay for a pitman arm you can't use.

Later, Doug

I finally finished my shifter project.  I picked up a used Hurst shift lever, got a replacement knob through Summit and used a combination of shock spacer, and washers to make it work with the stock shifter and boot.

I have roughly $20 in it.  It's slightly taller than stock but it works well with my elbow on the center console.  And yes my welds look like crap but they've held up so far and are hidden so







Later, Doug

Little update....

The Blazer drove fine on Thursday from work to home.  I get in to go to class an hour and 15 minutes after getting home and the thing just cranks.  All the lights are bright, just doesn't want to seem to fire.  I turn off the radio and noticed that I didn't hear the fuel pump prime....CRAP!!!  Did some research and with the help of my wife tried swapping the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse.  Still no prime. 

I didn't want to do it but I dropped the tank Saturday (25deg and snowy).  Everything was going great until....I snap the vapor line connection on the fuel sender unit.  Finally found a sender from a 4dr at a junkyard to steal parts from.  (NOTE: you can use a 4dr unit in a 2dr tank IF you pull the rods and use the longer rods in the 4dr unit, clock the bottom parts like a 2dr unit, and use the original fuel level sender. Also 95-97 fuel senders look the same but one of the electrical connectors are different from the 98+ sneder.  You may be able to swap them but I didn't take a close enough look.)

Since I had to take everything in the sender apart and didn't want to chance using a crap junkyard pump that may not last, I headed to Summit Racing and picked up a Walbro 255lph fuel pump kit designed for a 3rd gen F-body.  The pump fitted easily, but the brass nipple for the siphon tube on the old pump must be reused.  (NOTE: UR50SLO, on some of the other forums, did the same swap some time ago and didn't use the siphon tube.  He's put quite a few miles on his turbo Jimmy and hasn't had a problem yet.) I also had to splice the Walbro pump wiring into the GM wiring as the connectors didn't match.

Got everything hooked up, threw the tank bank into it's spot and added an extra gallon of gas just in case.  Turned the key, didn't hear the pump prime, but cranked anyway.  The truck didn't start immediately.  Turned off the key, turned in back on and heard the pump prime.  Closer....turn the starter....WOHOOO!! It runs.

I now have a fuel pump capable of supporting 450+HP, so when it comes to a turbo I'll be all set.  Another good thing from this all is when I went to Summit, they had a set of front EBC Green stuff brake pads for $30 in the clearence area.  I need new front rotors so I thought I couldn't go wrong for $30.  I also picked up a new fuel filter that I need to install soon.  I was more worried about just getting the Blazer running than wanting to install a new fuel filter.

I know that I wasn't all that specific in how to install the Walbro pump, so if anyone has questions either e-mail or PM me or post them here.

Later, Doug

Hey if you have time what are the specifics of the walbro pump install? I'm going to order one because mines on the way out. VPN-GCA758-2 is that the part number? Thanks

Hey if you have time what are the specifics of the walbro pump install? I'm going to order one because mines on the way out. VPN-GCA758-2 is that the part number? Thanks

I went with the GCA758-2.  I got it for $124 from Summit Racing.  There are other places that sell it cheaper but Summit is 5 minutes from me and I needed the fuel pump ASAP.

I was going to write the specifics myself but I'm lazy and I found an article that was already written.    I did add my own edits in black font.

I can't stress this enough BE CAREFUL when disconnecting the two fuel lines and the vapor line especially if this is being performed in the cold.

Pull the 3 lines off the stock pump/sending unit, unhook the 2 electical connectors

Remove the snap ring that holds the assembly in place (it might break depending on how old and rusty it is)

Give the pump assemble a little love and it will pop out (its spring loaded)

Start by removing the black or grey clip that is holding the sending unit component in place, once that is removed, remove the sending unit component and pull the wires out of there holders... You can try to get the wires out of the connection at the base, but i dont reccomend it, i just carefully let the sending component hang while I did the rest...

Pull the small plastic hose off of the pump (syphon tube I guess)(this will take some force, but dont break it)

The stock accordian hose needs to be cut of both ends (replaced later with a high-pressure fuel safe 5/16" rubber hose)
I very carefully worked the stock accordian hose off the pump and left the other end of the hose attached.

Pull the filter off of the bottom of the assembly.

Disconnect the electrical connection from the pump

Push the two tabs on the side of the assembly and remove the center plastic peice that actually contains the pump.

Pull the pump and its rubber keeper out of the plastic container (will take some love and jimmying)

Pull the filter off of the pump and remove the pump from the rubber keeper (once again, love and jimmying)

Place the new pump in the rubber keeper (look before you put the pump in the rubber kepper, it can only go one way so the filter hole will line up)

I dont know if this was just MY Walbro, but it didnt have the brass nipple for the syphon tube, so I had to pull it from my old pump and press it into the new one (it was a bitch.. I also used gas-safe sealer/adhesive just in case)
I took a brass punch and gently tapped the nipple into the new pump housing until it was snug and fully seated.

Place the pump and rubber keeper back into the plastic peice (it can only go one way via mounting tabs)... once placed put the new filter on the bottom of the pump.

This is a good time to put the rubber hose on the pump (the hose it comes with is not long enough, I ended up using about 10" of fuel safe 5/16" fuel injection hose) Tighten it down nice and snug.
Since I reused the stock accordian hose.  I installed the hose with a hose clamp making sure the clamp was placed under the flare on the fuel pump.  It has held so far.  Later I may drop the tank and install actual fuel hose.

Place the inside plastic peice with the pump assembly into the sending unit assembly and make sure you pull the black syphon hose through)

Slide the sending component back onto the assembly and replace the black clip and rehook the wires into their keepers.

Finagle and push and cuss and pry and what not to squeeze the syphon hose onto the nipple (it hits the rubber hose and clamp and it a really tight squeeze)

Clamp the top portion of the 5/16 hose onto the assembly.
This wasn't necessary for me since I left the accordian hose connection untouched.

Hook up the electrical connection with the included converter.
It didn't look like the connectors were compatible so I cut and soldered the Walbro wires/connector to the OEM harness.

You should now have a new 255lph fuel pump/sending unit assembly ready installation

Put back into the tank, reapply the snap ring, hook up electrical connection, and 3 fuel lines.. make sure the ground on the back of the frame on the passenger side is tight, and see if she goes.

I did this all without the pictures or without the intention of doing a write up but I think my memory was good enough.

I did not take any pics.  But I know where there are some if someone wants them.

Later, Doug

Thanks! I mainly wanted to see what you did with the hose, time to order a pump and pull the bed off.

Fuel pump update...

Apparently having less than 1/4 tank causes the pump to suck some air and causes stumbling on hard acceleration and cornering.  I think it may have to do with the siphon line and related bits.  I think when Spring comes I'm going to drop the tank, replace the rigged accordian line with a new one from APE and remove the siphon line.  Until then I just can't run it below 1/4 tank which I shouldn't be doing anyway.

Later, Doug

Just wondering how can I g wet the rear bump stop mine are destroyed. Any ideas?

Thanks