SPC upper control arm on the street?

Hello,

I've got a 1982 Chevrolet S10 truck that Dad ordered new and I started driving in '92.  Over the years I've done some suspension mods and currently have the truck apart (again) for a 5.3 L33 / T56 swap.  I've got the hood, fenders, etc. off, engine out, and suspension off.  It's not much more than a bare frame past the firewall at the moment, and I'm starting to reassemble.

The last suspension build back in 2004 used UB Machine upper arms with screw-in ball joints and B-body spindles/12" 1LE rotors, XH power steering box, 1 1/8" PST front sway bar, and Carrera coilovers (#6 shock valving, 600 lb. spring.  I'd like to have a 700# spring there, like stock, but I haven't found one in a quick search).  I kept it at a 2" drop with the coilovers for most of that time.  Wheels right now are the original-style 16" ZQ8 wheels with 245/50-16 tires (but that will almost certainly change once it's back on the road).

I'm planning on ditching the B-spindle stuff and going with stock late-model Blazer spindles (the bolt-on hub style),  probably stock dual-piston calipers for now, shorter upper A arm and matching tall ball joint.  I already have Del-A-Lum bushings for the stock lower arms, and will be going with a tall lower ball joint too.

I'm *this* close to calling SC&C and ordering their stage 1+ or 2+ kit but the SPC arms make me a bit nervous.  I've seen some complaints on the 'web about fitment (though that was on a Camaro. not an S10 or G-body), and the ball joint bolts being 'sloppy' in the arms (a 1/4" bolt in a 5/16" hole).

Link to the site where there were some concerns about SPC arms:  http://nastyz28.com/forum/threads/1975-formula-30-day-blitzkreig.196734/page-8#post-2344692

The UB Machine arms I have now are okay (I don't know how long they are off the top of my head) but the powder coating is coming off, and they're stiff to turn in the cross shaft.  They may just need grease.  The truck has, unfortunately, sat around for quite a while with a dying 2.8 while I finished remodeling my workshop and that didn't do it any favors.  There is a chance they're a reasonable length to use with the tall upper ball joints, but I'd need to find a Chrysler-style screw-in ball joint (i.e. Moog K772) for these arms that would have the right height and pin taper.  (These arms came from Robert Adams back when he was selling B-spindle swap kits, and the spindles were supposedly reamed to fit Chrysler ball joints).  Possibly something cobbled together with a Howe thread-in ball joint body and pin that fits the Blazer spindle?  I'm not terribly excited about that route, honestly, but I suppose it's a choice.

For that tall upper, I've read that the 1" taller upper is the best choice for geometry updates vs. the .5" taller upper, but I've also read that it limits suspension travel.

For the lowers, I've seen at least one complaint about the Howe lowers not fitting the stock LCA properly and binding because of that.  SC&C will definitely push me to the Howe parts (I talked to Marcus a few weeks ago asking about the lowers with the B spindles I already have, which I decided against).

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

I don't recall hearing any complaints about the SPC arms on the pro-touring forum but there are also lots of other good options for UCAs. UMI, Spohn, and a bunch of other high end manufacturers make tall BJ UCAs and have great reputations.

I suspect the issue with the poor fitting Howe lower BJ had more to do with inconsistent or worn factory LCAs but it wasn't the bolt holes that I remember, it was that the opening on the LCA was either too big or too small to accept the BJ. I know some have also had the same issues with them not fitting well in older ridetech LCAs but you can just clearance the opening if it's too tight or add a small tack weld if you're worried about it not seating.

The heaviest spring available for the QA1 coilovers is 650 lbs at the moment.

I'm running the Proforged tall lower with some standard C10 upper on the UB machine upper on my main project. The uppers haven't seen the road, but I've used Proforged parts including tall lowers on several of my trucks and their price, quality,  and few questions asked warranty is hard to beat.

Other than that I think you're on the right track for a stock spindle setup.

I also run proforged lowers - no issues and 1/2 the price of Howes.

They also have tall uppers too. I don't know if I had seen it before, but something worth knowing.

Check page 2 for the ball joints

http://proforged.com/catalog/2003/Chevrolet/S10/drive_type/RWD

Hello,

So. this morphs a bit, but I looked at the Spohn and UMI arms.  Both look like decent parts.

If you configure the (short) Spohn arms with Delrin bushings without ball joitns, then add 1/2" taller Proforged ball joints yourself, they compare with the UMI non-adjustable arms in specs.  The Spohn arms are cheaper by about $75 (the difference is less if you include their mounting hardware since Spohn wants more for their bag of bolts).  Any reason to go with one vs. the other?

UMI also offers an adjustable arm, which looks like their non-adjustable arm but instead of Delrin bushings, they have  rod ends that thread into the arm.  That's interesting but I'm not sure how well that would work on the street.  I would be concerned they wouldn't last very long on the street vs. a track.  I sent them a question about using the adjustable arms on the street.

Anyone running the adjustable UMI upper arms?

I have adjustable SPC G-body uppers on my pickup, and haven't had any issues that I've noticed. Personally, I'd go with SPC 94332 because the pivots are offset so they won't hit the frame.

Hello,

I asked UMI about their arms with rod-ends vs. Delrin bushings, and here is their reply:

The adjustable arms are shorter by approx. 5/8" and are used to eliminate shims or to help get the correct alignment of a vehicle when it is needed due to geometry.
No spherical rod ends are greasable per say other than spraying lubricant on them.They will not wear out quickly or produce a more harsh ride compared to the non adjustable.
It really comes down to the geometry of your vehicle as to if the adj. will work better. In a nut shell either will work.
Craig   

Nice to see a factory response that isn't all lawyer mumbo jumbo, lol. sounds like a fun build, can we get some pictures?