Deluxe front suspension design

Hello everyone!

I'm Boot, I'm new, but old, but yeah, I'm finally getting around to starting on the re-rebuild of the Deluxe. 

The Deluxe started life as a 1989 S10, regular cab shortbox 2wd.  I did my junkyard crawl back in the mid 2000's, and with some select aftermarket parts, I had a truck that had a great, daily drivable stance.  it handled great, for what it was, but i always wanted more. 

More is happening now.  You all get to help.

The truck will be getting a much, much older body, which will be discussed at a later time.  the engine will be a big block, there will be a 4 speed,  the rear suspension will be a 4 link setup,  once again,  discussed at a different place. 

This thread is about front suspension, and also, a bit of a front brake discussion.

So I chose to use this chassis specifically for the huge aftermarket support for the G body setup.  here is my plans

UB Machine UCA,  Delrin bushings ( i already have these)
Refurbished LCA, delrin bushings
Tall ball joints, both upper and lower
coilovers ( i know nothing about coilovers, but im interested in learning so much!)
quick ratio Trans Am steering box (already have this)
33mm 2nd gen ZQ8 swaybar,  polyurethane bushings (have this)
2" drop spindles (have these, dont know if they will still work tho)

my brake plans are to run a C5 setup, I've seen several companies that offer conversion kits, but i do not know if they will work with my drop spindles.  any insight on that?

So,  im open to learn, to discuss, to change my ideas to better fit my dreams if it makes sense.  so please, let's hear what you have to say!

Need more info on the weight of the engine and body you're going to be dropping in it, and if you want to street it, track it or drag it, to help with coilover selection.

For brakes, C5 is one of the easiest and strongest braking options without completely ruining your bank account. And it will work with drop spindles, but you will be modifying your spindles by cutting off the brake ears and drilling and re-tapping the mounting holes to a slightly larger size. It really is pretty straight forward.

Hey Lee!

I'm not sure what the best coilover option will be with a big block. QA1 only offers up to a 650# spring and that's barely adequate for holding up a V6. You could check into Viking, I think they may have a few more options than QA1.

Also don't forget, a coil over spring will be just as effective if you're trying to use the factory spring cup on the frame and the factory shock mount on a factory LCA. The geometry is the same, the hardpoints are the same, but you get more travel without coil bind due to the longer spring, and you'll save money, even if you want to put an adjuster on top of the spring so you can fine tune spring height. You could also move the shock outboard, like the bagged guys do, and install a circle track style weight jack into the spring cup, to both retain the spring and allow height adjustment. If you are going to hack the spring cup off the frame, plate it and add a mount for a true captured spring coilover, then you'll actually reap the benefits of a true coilover.