tierods and steering linkages

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-Approved-Tie-Rod-Assemblies,2058.html

with

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

pictures are on my build thread, but get the reamer too, you can only gain between 1/8" and 3/16" with it as it comes because of the hole diameter in the spindle, but there is plenty of meat to open it up and gain almost an additional quarter inch.

those were the two items I was looking at.....thanks

with the price of the tie rods and the reamer I might just buy the Spohn set-up and wont have to modify the spindles

The components are extremely similar, and with the layout of G-bodies and S10s you need the tie rod as high as you can get it, so if you do get it, you'll want to remove that top high misalignment washer and if the stud is in fact the same one, you'll need the reamer anyway. The anodized aluminum is really nice on the spohns though.

did you get the GM or the pinto studs?

guessing GM but have to ask

GM, the pinto are 7 degree, GM are 10, I think. But I did get the GM and they did fit, well, if a bit high.

It is a bit hard to see, but the widest nut surface, can get as high as withing a quarter inch of the spindle, but there is an additional quarter plus in there that could be taken up with the ream.

http://protourings10.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=541.0;attach=385;image

that's got to be the smallest picture ever haha

I saw the larger pictures on your build thread.  I'm now thinking the big bump steer problem is the drop spindles.

My over thinkingism:  stock spindles put the tie rod at the center of the wheel and tire, drop spindles put the tie rod two inches down from center.  Looking at my wife's stock '02 xtreme the tie rods and linkage is at the same angle (almost level) as my 4" lowered blazer.  The only difference is the drop spindles and I have bump steer and the xtreme does not.

or my '87 linkage could be far past gone 

My money is on worn out. Because the main bumpsteer problem actually comes from the fact that the length of the tie rods causes their arc of movement to be completely different and a larger radius than the suspension, so it causes toe changes through suspension travel. Total stiffness in the wheel and tire combo as well as the aggressiveness of the tire itself and how hard it's driven can make it more or less noticeable between vehicles as well.

okay, i'm lost on that last post (could be the crown and water), but I know it's less noticable with new tires and it had gotten worst in the past year. My front tires also wear bad on the inside.

That sounds more like an alignment issue than bumpsteer.

yeah, I think my poly upper arm bushing are going out, that's one reason for speedway upper arms......but I do have bump steer too......I'm going to get the upper arms and new steering linkage then a good alignment

the wife's xtreme had the front tires wearing bad on the inside and it was due to the upper arm bushings....that was a $300 fix later

another variable a lot of people forget is the amount of suspension travel used across cars.

the less travel used under regular driving, the less bump induced steer angle.

most likely why i rarely noticed any significant bumpsteer

my suspension doesn't travel that far