Am i on the right track?

After reading the stickies and many post i think that i have created more questions than answers.please bear with me. on my 97 blazer project my goal for re-doing the suspension is for a reliable good handling truck.when it was my daily driver i lowered it with 4"blocks in the back and 2"coils in the front all else being bone stock and it rode like a sherman tank. now that its stripped down my plans so far include ub machine uca's,del-alum upper and lower bushings on stock lowers,zq8 coils,belltech 2"spindles.rolling on factory c6 wheels.from reading, the tall upper and lower ball joints seem to be the way to go as far as keeping things in line. i would also like to convert to the c5 brakes seeing that i already own them thanks to a good buddy that works at the stealership that got them for me for free.i am just trying to get my shopping list together so i can order the suspension parts next week.what do you guy think about the parts so far and what should i look out for? any help and comments would be greatly appreciated.and what is the correct part number for the correct uca's?

I don't know that there is an actual part number for the UCAs, just call and let them know it's for an S10 and what upper ball joint you're using, they can do the rest. Don't forget you're going to need wheel spacers for the C6 wheels and stock suspension for a second gen blazer I believe it's 2" up front and 2 or 2.25 in the back. For the C5 brakes, you either need to make or buy the brackets, conversion lines and you'll have to cut off the stock caliper mount ears from the spindles.

What are your plans for the rear?

i was going to convert the rear to disc also, but kits for that are available.as far as ball joints go, would there be an advantage of using the tall uppers and lowers versus the standard? i am a drivetrain and body guy, suspension is a whole new ballgame to me other than just replaceing bushings.

The short version is yes, there will be a notable advantage to using as much tall ball joint as you can get.

What I meant on the rear is, you're not keeping those 4" blocks on there are you? I would hate so see someone spend the better part of two grand on his front and have stock leaves with 4"blocks blocks on the rear.

i was going to convert the rear to disc also, but kits for that are available.as far as ball joints go, would there be an advantage of using the tall uppers and lowers versus the standard? i am a drivetrain and body guy, suspension is a whole new ballgame to me other than just replaceing bushings.

where are you located? i have some disc brakes off an s10

oh no, was going to loose the 4" blocks and go with drop leafs. I am in houston texas.

You may run into tie-rod clearance issues with the C6 wheels and drop spindle combo.  That will likely be exaggerated if you run tall lower balljoints but I'm not sure if anyone has actually tried that to find out.  Either way you'll probably need a minimum of a 2.5" spacer to clear them.

The UB Machine UCAs come with steel-on-steel bushings which work great so no need for del-alum there.

Do your '97 spindles have the sealed bearing hub? If so, you won't have to modify them for the brake work. flynbye and Kore3 make the brake conversion parts you'll need for the C5 swap.

ah, maybe shipping will kill any good deal i try to give you then. pm me if you are still interested.

i think c6s use 18s? if so, that should go around the tierods i think...
and wouldnt tall lowers help the situation?

i think 97s still have the dead spindle

yeah the 97 was the last year for the old style spindle,98 was the first year with a sealed hub.flybye performance has a hub for my spindle that the rotor goes on so that should reduce the amount of the wheel spacer a little bit.modifying my spindle is not an issue for me.the wheel sizes are 18x8.5 in the front and 19x9.5 in the rear. i called ub machine this morning but i am still waiting for a return call.thats nice to know that the uca's come with solid bushings. it dosnt say that on there website. that will give me some cash to put elsewere like the balljoints.

and wouldnt tall lowers help the situation?
 

You're probably right - thinking about the relative orientation of multiple parts hurts my brain. The taller 8.5" wide wheel will help the situation for sure.

The part numbers for the various versions of the UB Machine control arms are in this thread

http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26465

Tall lowers do help the situation, but with C6's it won't matter at all. However, if you are going to run more than about a 275 in the front, you are going to be running a lot harder on your tie rods, you might consider the extra couple of bucks you've got to be used towards some heavy duty spherical tie rods like I made.

And the FNB or Kore3 hubs will only help the spacer situation by about 1/8".

Thanks alot guys for all the information.Mule just thinking about all the part mixing possibilities makes my head hurt.I guess there is no magic recipe for a tried and true upgrade and everybodys situation is a little bit differant.I spoke to Ed yesterday at flybye and he is on the hunt for a new machinest right now so he dosnt have any conversion hubs for me right now.I have plenty of time to study up and gather parts anyway. sending the frame out next monday for blast and powdercoat now that i have my batterybox relocated and welded in,fuel lines and filter fabbed and mounted.seems like miles to go before i can even set the body back on the frame.

I guess there is no magic recipe for a tried and true upgrade

yes there is:

Ferrari.

I'm just curious how much are the conversion hubs and caliper adapters from kor3?

i have not checked with kor3, flybye hubs and brackets are 250.00

$300 with Timken bearings and stamped caps.

I have a NEW KORE3 C5 rear disc brake kit. One of the brackets needs to be remade, bought or fixed as I used it for R&D on another project. I also have NEW C5 rear calipers (grey), New C5 rotors & DIH parking brake shoes.

Here's a link to what I've got.. http://protourings10.com/index.php?topic=950.0