My '91 s10

Flipped the frame over and primed the bottom too.


Here's a better picture of the result, so happy

Made this on pic-stitch for my phone last night, motivation

Yay! Dual adjustable QA1's with 550lbs spring. This is all the way down vs a 3" coil... Really hoping the coil compresses and the ART control arms give me some more drop.

couldn't help myself but play with these some more. Turns out the LCA's have poly bushings already, so I'm going to save the $60 for now and stick with those. I'll go steel later down the road if the poly's cause problems. Hopefully ordering my UCA's soon, birthday is in a week.

Glad to see those control arms are finally going to get used for something.

Nice!  The 550 springs should be pretty damn stiff!

Where did you pick up the springs from?

I ordered the whole kit from Summit for $610, along with steel coilover wrenches for $17

Picked up this slut today, K-Sport hydro e-brake. $120 brand new in box from Centreline Motorsports in Brampton. Might make my own handle for it, this one feels goofy.


This will allow me to easily lock up the rear wheels while drifting, it also has a locking mechanism so you can use it as a regular parking brake. It flips out of the way for the track though, no accidental locking on!

I've been lurking around the drifting forums lately, and a point was brought up regarding these hydro handbrakes. If you tap into the rear lines to use it, this means your pedal is now front only.  If you make brackets to add a 2nd caliper to each side, then you can retain 4wheel foot braking as well as hydro rear braking.

Just a thought.

I've been lurking around the drifting forums lately, and a point was brought up regarding these hydro handbrakes. If you tap into the rear lines to use it, this means your pedal is now front only.  If you make brackets to add a 2nd caliper to each side, then you can retain 4wheel foot braking as well as hydro rear braking.

Just a thought.

i always figured that was only if you got a MC for the hand brake that allowed fluid to be pushed into the reservoir when 'slack'
are there no ways around that issue at all? (aside from the mentioned 2nd set of calipers.


-edit- did a bit of reading, turns out you can retain both functions if you plumb the foot brake mc line to the "reservoir" port on the handbrake MC, and plumb the rest of the rear line from the 'out' of the handbrake MC.

makes sense to me, but I assume it would cause weirdness if you do both at the same time...?

To the best of my knowledge, fluid passes through this handbrake MC until pulled, and when pulled, it puts pressure to only the rear. I honestly haven't done any research on the subject yet. It was sort of an impulse buy, but they retail at $150 and this is brand new in box so I'm not worried.

call me a n00b but where did you get LCAs like that, that will mount a coil?

Those LCAs are factory air ride tech lowers, but they look like the old style lowers, I believe the new ones use a crossbolt instead of T shock.

Correct, they are the old design ART StrongArms. Also correct, the new style uses a through-bolt, shown here


I forget if I mentioned before, but i'm lending my buddy my motor while he rebuilds his. I'm doing the engine bay overhaul in his 85 c10 right now. I got the motor cleaned up and almost ready to rock again, just need to throw the oil pan on tomorrow and wait til the firewall is finished


He's getting valve covers to match the air cleaner, and some other goodies.

thanks for the info man!

also, is that custom valve covers and air cleaner? I really like that. I want to get rid of alot of the chrome on my v8 as well

It's an edelbrock 2101 intake, and some basic aftermarket valve covers on there now. I have a holley 650 when it's in my truck, but theres an edelbrock 600 on it for his.

got the front painted and one side "together", gave up for the night and let paint dry before assembling driver side.




Gotta clean up spindles and wait for my UB UCA's to arrive next month, then the front will be rolling again. Might order aluminum hubs for the C5 swap or something, unsure where I'm going with brakes right now.

When I shorted the 8.5" ZR2 rear end, should I stick to stock flanges or is there a flange that I could weld on that will broaden my brake selection? I'm thinking 13" front and rear if I can afford it.

I do not know what options are available as far as flanges for the 8.5, but you should decide on what brakes you would like to use, and go from there. Why do you need 13" front and back? With the weight of the rear of our trucks it seems kind of overkill. But that is just my opinion.

When I did the 8.8 in my 85 I bought big bearing 9" flanges that would let me use blazer rear brakes.

I don't NEED 13" in the rear, thats for sure. It would help with the hydro e-brake though.