My '91 s10

are the hubs going to fit inside the rotor?

I'm not sure, I intend to machine them down later on a regular lathe if possible. My buddy's brother is also a machinist with his own shop. My main priority is to make it a roller ASAP, and full rotors arent needed for that.

this


plus this


plus this


will make this easily achievable, often.

Spring is HERE. A huge thanks to Mr. "hoowybrow" for picking up my truck from winter storage. Here's a shot with his absolutely badass 2014 Sierra dropped 4.5 up front and 7 in the rear.


I currently have the truck parked in the back room of my shop. I don't want to get overspray on it, so she's hiding until I have money and motivation.


As for the shop, things are coming along great. Have made plenty of minor changes, one of which being all new lighting. MUCH better. Here's a panorama from the bench corner.


I also recently built my own sheetmetal brake. It's basically built out of overpriced angle iron and a basic pipe hinge.


I made some purchases over the winter as well.
Spohn tubular control arms to compliment my QA1 coilovers (yet to be purchased, again)


I also ordered a Little Shop of Horrors no-toe steering kit to correct bumpsteer on a lowered truck. Should make a huge improvement when it comes to steering response I hope. Here's an internet picture of said kit


Excited to get wrenching on the truck again.

i know its almost been a year, and you may know this know, but those hubs will not fit inside the rotor. they need to be turned down to around 5.900" or less. i go to about 5.83" when i make them to be sure they fit not knowing the tolerances between brands and such.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f14/corvette-and-ls1-brake-swaps-how-to-and-info-522849/

I'll likely go 98+ Blazer spindles OR have my own fabbed to run vette hubs and calipers without any stupid brackets. Much to come.

trucks been sitting... and sitting... and sitting.

I have my LSOH steering kit mocked up, I tried running the SPOHN arms I got for a steal but they won't work.

I'm having a set custom made for a good price, 1" wider per side at centre line of balljoint so alignment specs should be similar. Geo will change a bit of course but we'll see how that goes. These are cheap enough i'm just gonna trial and error it.

I will be looking into front coilover options, as from what I've heard the 550lbs QA1 springs aren't near stiff enough for strict track use.

enough dreaming, here's the truck in it's current state. It's sitting on a new frame that isn't warped from amateur boxing but i won't be using it... no spoilers.



i'm picking up my buddy's 450hp smallblock mid spring, he's gonna dial it in in his car for me before he gets his big block swapped.

Sounds like big changes are coming! Also, I say this every time but I need a 1st gen.

First gens have such nice lines, except for the damn ugly bumpers.

Anyone have the techknowledgy (hey I like that word...) to AutoCAD or something the front suspension and investigate the geo changes with 1" longer arms? I know bumpsteer will improve especially with my LSOH bump kit but want to make sure I'm not doing this for nothing. my main concern is to improve the tire-to-frame clearance at lock, since I will be attempting to run 18x9.5 all the way around. I will settle for 8's up front if I have to.

if all you are looking for is tire to frame clearance, just run different offset wheels.
long arms are definitely something worth considering, but not for just that reason.

With stock length upper arms?

cactus, my issue with running a different offset to clear frame is that the wheel effectively now travels further forward and back compared to higher offset with wider width. I'm 6' tall and with a jungle gym and myself to squeeze inside the cab, i'd like to tub the firewall as little as possible but still clear 9.5's hopefully.

I have decided to use one of the following setups, depending on clearance and fitment at ride height:

A) 255/50r18 on 18x9.5 all around (stretch and flush, not most of your taste but I love it)

B) 295/40r18 on 18x9.5 all around (will sit flush and be super aggressive)

C) 295/40r18 on 9.5 rear 255/40r18 on 8' front (aggressive yet functional)

Sorry there hasn't been much real progress, just excited and know you guys can appreciate that!

295 fronts are going to make turning a bit of an issue.

What sort of issue? Clearance is out of the question as I will deal with that accordingly. I ran 255's before with little to no issues or modifications.

Depending on offset and overall height, of course, rubbing on the swaybar will be the first steering limitation. I have 28" 255s on my white driver and they don't get even close to box lock before rubbing.

Which is exactly where the longer arms come into play. They accomplish the task of moving the rim further away from the frame, but where as a low offset rim would achieve the same, full lock would mean the tire is further back/forward compared to a longer arm with a more centred offset. I'm changing the pivot point of the wheel if that makes sense? Not sure how else to word it.

I have the steel to begin my frame, so once I get a few other projects out of the way, it's full force on the truck.

I also picked up ProForged Tall Balljoints, paid $200 + exchange off summit. Seem to be good quality.

Waiting on my delrin LCA bushings to be spun up when my machinist gets a second. He's swamped with orders and i'm in no rush.

Starting to get into more fabrication and welding, which is going to be great practice for when I finally get my frame built. A good buddy of mine has been doing trucks for 20+ years and has built multiple back halfs, so my firewall back is no problem for him.

I started by dropping a good chunk of change on materials for this 3x8 welding table. The top is a 3x8 sheet of 1/2" plate.






The frame is fully welded, all I have left is to pick up some countersink bolts for the surface and weld on the foot plates for my casters. I have a few side jobs lined up that I can put this thing to use finally.