My '91 s10

some photoshop love

Steel and 4link is priority, along with a rear end. I have the opportunity to get an 8.5" rear end from a ZR2, but it's drum. I could shorten it, rebuild the carrier (G80?) and use factory disk parts? Could also look into rear disk kits since i'll be welding the flanges on anyway and could go any route. E-brake isn't a concern since i'll be running a hydro e-brake

As for progress priority, i'll be boxing the frame and chopping all the useless crossmembers/ brackets, then painting the front and centre so I can put the cab on while finishing the rear frame work.

Here's a picture of a 295/35zr18 on an 18x9.5" rim...

Opinions on running them all around? I'm looking at the Boss 338's with some Toyo R888's on the front atleast, probably a cheaper tire on the rear.

9.5" is going to be a bit much on the front. Harley has shown a 9" working up front, I don't think I'd want to go any wider.

You mean for clearances or functionability? I'll be tubbing the front inner fenders as well as the firewall. Firewall is where i've seen most of the clearance problems come from, aside from hitting the frame. I also considered a 255 on an 8" up front with the 295 on a 9.5 in the rear.

Ryo and I mocked up the 17x9 with 275/40R17 up front on my Blazer and he actually ran that combo up front on the track.

Clearance to the sway bar was the first thing to disappear.

With my ride height and that tire diameter firewall clearance wasn't a problem.


Blazer 142 by TheHarley, on Flickr


Blazer 143 by TheHarley, on Flickr


Blazer 145 by TheHarley, on Flickr


Blazer 147 by TheHarley, on Flickr


Blazer 148 by TheHarley, on Flickr

My experience with fuel cells is most of those in our price range are designed for drag racing rather than corner carving.  Even with foam I had trouble using more than 10 of the 16 gallons mine could hold because of slosh while cornering.  I also went through external fuel pumps rather quickly.  Definitely learned the hard way with that one.

With the new frame I'm re-installing my stock tank because the factory designed fuel bowl does a decent job of keeping enough fuel available when cornering.  Plan in the future is to add a ~1 gallon surge tank in the future to better address fuel slosh while cornering.

I encourage you to use a factory Blazer tank if you want to move it to the rear.  I'm hoping to fab my own surge tank and not spend $100+ on that, but we will see what happens when I get there.


If you want to save some pennies I'm sure you can find trailer fenders for cheaper than Thorbecke Brothers, but not quite the same product even though they work fine.

I recently tubbed a second gen box with $30 princess auto fenders. I ran into problems with width. I had to weld two together. As soon as I cut one side of the lip off, the entire tub warped and bowed on the cut side.



That also meant I needed 4 tubs instead of 2, which ended up costing over $120. I'll have to see what the shipping charges on the SD tubs is

As far as tire sizes go, frame clearance issues can be resolved with offset/spacers. Would 295's all around be beneficial in the traction department? Saying you're running 295's up front simply feels badass. hahaha

Yes, 295s would improve traction.. by having more rubber in contact w/ the road/track. But there's a lot more to traction than that.

You know if you want to save money you could have used a 55 gallon drum & made your own wheel wells.. sometimes you can find them on craigslist for $20.

Likely be sticking to my 17x8's for a while, budget is starting to become a realization. 255/40's are plenty for now.

I should have the frame blasted soon, I keep putting it off.

Likely be sticking to my 17x8's for a while, budget is starting to become a realization. 255/40's are plenty for now.

I should have the frame blasted soon, I keep putting it off.

I feel your pain, I've got a PILE of parts on the way, but it's so cold out and I've been so tired from work, my business and the holidays, I haven't touched the truck in weeks. I just keep saying, tomorrow is another day.

Cold? Aren't you in AZ? 

It's currently 39 degrees, low for the night is 28. We get a high of a wopping 58 tomorrow, but it'll be in the 50s for a whole hour probably. It gets damn cold in the desert.

28 is pleasant compared to the 15 we have here at night & 50-58 during the day... not bad either. I'd definately take that over the 30-33 we've been getting.

What he said.  Anything above freezing still allows much more to get done.  Yesterday it got up to 32, so I decided it would be my best chance in the next few months to replace the front door of my house.

I'll learn all about it next year. I'm moving to Trinidad, CO. Their high in the winter is rarely above freezing and last week didn't make it into the double digits a couple days.

Hurry up and buy that angry small-block I have. 

From the ext cab? Didn't you sell it? haha

What he said.  Anything above freezing still allows much more to get done.  Yesterday it got up to 32, so I decided it would be my best chance in the next few months to replace the front door of my house.

yea.... all the work on the blazer i've been doing it outside in the snow.... rx7 has a corner off so i can't even roll it out of the garage...

Progress! I got the frame sandblasted today. Here's how I got it there haha, looks super sketchy but it didn't move the whole trip


Guy got it blasted in under 45 minutes, did a pretty good job too! $100 out of my pocket but so worth it.

Here she is back at the shop and on stands


All primed up with Dupli-Color's Sealer Primer


Here is the notch kit I'll be using. It's the universal kit from Welder Series, $90 unwelded. This kit is really cool, it comes as a laser cut net and you just fold it up and weld! This one is for a friend, but I had em in the shop so I set em on.

Looks great - $100 is well worth it when you get to start with a clean slate like that!