My '91 s10

New idea. All of the problems with the 2.8 mounts seem to be related to the rubber frame half of the mount sagging and the cage bending. Would it be a bad idea to have some solid mounts made that are identical to the rubber 2.8 mounts? That way I could use  the motor-side adapters which I pictured, and a custom solid mount on the frame-side to replace the 2.8 rubber mount, eliminating "sag/bend" problems.

I don't mind vibrations through the cab etc, it's not a Cadillac.  I think my best bet is going to be to get my motor together and just start doing mock-up. I'm too hung up on finding a direct answer, but i'm not going to get that without finding out for myself with my own parts combo and truck layout. I'll see what I can do to make the shorties/oil pan fit as far back and with the least amount of firewall mods. I don't mind making something and having my step-dad finish weld it for guaranteed strength, granted it's a good design.

I'll link these again.

http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/104232/CSP2375

They are an exact replacement to the clamshell mount just much better.  Very similar to a solid mount except they use a poly bushing insted of aluminum or steel.  That same company sells solid mounts that are a drop in as well, but if you are going to be driving this truck everyday I strongly suggest you stay away from a solid mount.

As far as a poly insert for the clamshell mount, they will push the price as high or higher than the improved mounts I've shared.  This is what I've found while comparing the options in the past.  Besides it is more of a bandaid for a less than ideal design considering the size and power of a V8.

Sorry for the diversion, but just wanted to give some advice on a few things that have been bouncing around my head.

I'm looking at about $620 to my door for the dual adjustable kit from Summit, that's including the duties/shipping fees (calculated on the site, probably not accurate) and including the $100 off for my gift card. I've spent about $4000 on this motor so far since i'm having most of it built and buying mostly new parts... coilovers really aren't in the budget right now, but neither are ANY shocks haha

You might want to put everything, but the necessities on hold if you've already dropped $4k on that engine.  Speaking as someone who has nearly spent himself out of everything I own in the past, you're spending way too much money you don't have on something that definitely isn't a necessity.  I'm pretty sure I've mentioned this before, but sometimes even though we want the best truck we can it isn't possible to get that done tomorrow.  Sometimes getting it running with the bare minimum is both intelligent and admirable.  True respect is earned by making smart choices not by what you have or own.

There are several reasons none of my 3 vehicles are where I would like them to be.  The first is the fact that there are 3 of them, but another large one is I've come to realize these things take time on a limited budget.  Getting out of debt (especially debt to loved ones) and putting money aside for the future takes precedence over V8 swaps and coil-overs.

Ah, missed the link the first time. I'll definitely grab those mounts, look way better. Those are direct swap for the 2.8L "clamshell" mounts, correct? Sorry to be a pain..

You're right, my bill is getting way up there. I'll run the blown shocks until I have some money, they rode pretty good believe it or not.. Thanks for all the help guys, my mind loves to wander where it doesn't belong

Those are direct swap for the 2.8L "clamshell" mounts, correct?

You are correct.

Great, looks like i'll be ordering some up. If anyone needs a pair of brand new stock 2.8L mounts...

Thanks again for the help guys, my mind is all over the place. Ever order from Car Shop?

I ordered my mounts from them and had a pleasant transaction for some other S10 parts with one of their employees.

Great, I'll order em up.

this picture doesn't show it, but I removed the LCA's and primed from the firewall forward. I didn't get any of the bottom of the frame, but oh well, nobody will see that anyway. Threw some filler primer on the firewall, this stuff sprays amazing! sands down real easy too, love it.


also removed the master and brake lines, again, not pictured.

cleaned up my non-a/c air box. Just need to find a clean blower motor, the one I had planned on using is from the a/c box and the wheel is too deep. Just needs primer, sanding and paint.


small touches make a big difference. I filled in the hole for the windshield sprayer and will be filling all the screw holes for the TBI wiring harness and relays etc. Just going to be cleaner in the end.


I'll keep my sprayers but i'll be running the hose in through the cowl to keep it cleaner looking. hopefully I can get it through the fender and into the side of the firewall, somewhat hidden. I'm trying to keep this engine bay CLEAN, but still have an overflow/washer tank.

second coat of rocker guard on the frame, love this stuff

hey look, good stuff!

Nice, good pile of stuff there.  What are your plans for the exhaust?

Nice!

exhaust will likely be true duals with a flowmaster 50, I'm looking for something deep and on the quiter side of things. I know an H or X pipe would benefit it greatly but there's simply no room, unless it doesn't matter how long the intermediate? pipe is, since the two banks will probably run within inches of each other.

Running into problems with the heads I got. He took a die grinder to the pushrod hole, which acts as a guide I believe. This means I need to run self-aligning rockers, but have my doubts in trusting them to keep the rocker straight.. It's $200 for screw-in studs which would be required to run guide plates, which is money that could be spent on a different set of heads. If anyone has hook-ups on a pair of heads ready to bolt on (near Kitchener, ON) please speak up.

went from this:


to this:


still have to paint the block and timing cover, they're going the same "cast iron" gray as the head

Nice progress, looking forward to seeing it sitting in the truck.
If you haven't already make sure you clean the paint off those plugs.

Fair money says they're junk plugs he threw in just to keep the threads clean when he paints, it's what I do too, seems to work better than balled up tape for me.

they're junk plugs he threw in just to keep the threads clean when he paints

this^ haha, 5 are NGK and 3 are AC Delco, the NGK's were fucked and the delco's came out of the truck, they're $9 plugs (each) but they're so oiled up i wouldn't want to save them any way...

went to put the valves back in the second head and turns out it's a damn good thing I did it...


broken valve spring.. how?!?!

went to my buddy's to pick up self-aligning rockers and a replacement spring, also got a cast water neck off him. Might just get an aluminum one haha. everything is in for good on the bottom end, heads are torqued, just need a water pump and a harmonic balancer.



I plan on finishing the firewall and frame by sunday night, then I'll throw the front suspension back together. Wish tubular uppers and coilovers were in the budget but they're far from affordable right now.

nothing excited really. paint dried, got all the rods/rockers on and semi-adjusted (haven't done each cylinder individually at TDC yet). Painted the firewall too. Intake is just sitting there





Picking up a B&M line lock brand new in box for $25, why not. New front lines and new section of rear line to come. Is deleting ABS as easy as using the master/prop valve off of my blazer? (87, non abs) Not like I've ever felt it kick in, but that module is ugly as sin.

Good news on the employment side of things. Our commercial assistant, Andy, has been printing off old receipts for high dollar parts and stealing them, then handing them off to his friends who then return the parts at other stores with the printed receipts for money to fake credit cards he got ahold of. Pretty serious stuff. Long story short, I got info from one of the "friends", told my boss, he's fired and I work his shift Monday (today). I'm hoping to get offered the position, which means a steady 9-5:30 Mon-Friday. That's 40 hour weeks, big step from my 20 hours/week with staggered hours.

Have to get a new clutch, whoever replaced it last put a 10.5" disk on an 11" flywheel and pressure plate. I ordered my centreforce according to the disk I pulled, which doesn't bolt up to the flywheel. Need input: Is it worth getting another Centreforce "Dual Friction" for $400, or should I get a stock replacement for $150 which also comes with release bearing? Will they grab and hold up the same?

The proportioning valve should work just fine as long as you're using it on the same brake setup.  ie: if the blazer is disc/drum and the S10 is disc/drum you are all set.

Perfect, that's what I thought but just wanted to double check. I'll run the lines tomorrow once I pick up the line lock.


Got the shorties painted tonight, we'll see how well the paint holds up.


also picked up new plugs, heater hose fittings, PVC, basically some little stuff. Made a nice list for my next few days off, should be dropping the motor in within a week or two max. Here's a better picture of the colour, it looks way too dark in the rest of the pictures. I know progress is slow and unappealing right now, but theres never too many pictures in a build thread..