86 s15 v8 corner carver

anywho...

some small updates.

my camera broke, so all i have is my cell phone for now

got the parking/e brakes rebuilt. i discovered the difference between the 2 kits that differentiate 97-99 and 00+. 2 screws! theyre a different thread, the one that holds the clip for the shoe. just save your old hardware. $80 difference in price for 2 lousy screws that are a different thread.



this little guy




ls1 brackets. my mill broke while trying finishing them. had to finish a few sets by hand.



i discovered you have to grind the little nub off the ls1 abutments to clear a socket cap head  (allen) bolt.

before



after



i pushed the motor too hard and let the smoke out of the controller on the mill.

now theres your problem!



got my tank painted and installed!



i needed new anti squeek/rub strips, and i forgot to order them from lmc last time around. some guys at s10forum who have ordered the lmc kit says its just 15lb roofing tar paper cut into strips. so off to the hardware store, i found a roll of "tread tape" much cheaper and already cut 2" wide. it looks better and works perfect.



despite my best efforts it touches the crossmemeber, but i dont give a shit at this point




and in other news someone hit the miata in front of my house and ran.



and i have wayy too much metal building up. this is 2 of 4 buckets full of chips that i pressed on the 12 ton.

do a scrap run, free money is always good!

thats why i keep it! i have an engine block, an aluminum head, 1 of the 5 gal buckets is aluminum, a bunch of leaf springs, old s10 suspension etc, itll be a good run, its been about 3 years in the making lol

sorry if this response seams a "little defensive". i dont like peope making generalizations and lumping me in with a crowd. especailly when they are soo far off its crazy, and when i actually agree with them to begin with. 

Sounds like we both react the same to generalizations and assumptions. And that's why we have a double rant.

Don't forget it isn't always easy to tell if someone is joking or serious on the internet.  All that is available is what is said. Background and emotion can easily be missed.

I'm glad we're on the same page on several topics.  This place seems to collect those on that same page, it's close knit, so I'm more likely to call someone out.

All the cool kids talk about fat chicks.  Guess that was my own joke.

my mill broke while trying finishing them. had to finish a few sets by hand.

Sounds like a normal day in the shop.  Something important always goes down when it is needed.

I like the tread tape/tar paper tip.  I will have to keep that in mind in the future.

sorry if this response seams a "little defensive". i dont like peope making generalizations and lumping me in with a crowd. especailly when they are soo far off its crazy, and when i actually agree with them to begin with. 

Sounds like we both react the same to generalizations and assumptions. And that's why we have a double rant.

Don't forget it isn't always easy to tell if someone is joking or serious on the internet.  All that is available is what is said. Background and emotion can easily be missed.

I'm glad we're on the same page on several topics.  This place seems to collect those on that same page, it's close knit, so I'm more likely to call someone out.

All the cool kids talk about fat chicks.  Guess that was my own joke.

no hard feelins. just for future reference i am ridiculously sarcastic and i like to joke.


the motor controllers is a common issue on these mills. i think i got more time out of mine than anyone in the machining forums. the other issue is that i think i might have popped my motor too! its upsetting to have to spend money on the item that makes you money lol. so to make it worthwhile, i decided to upgrade the board to handle a 1.5hp motor, and if my stock 1hp motor is bad i have an 1.5hp ebay purchase awaiting. more power is always good, and ive needed it a few times.

Really? You're sarcastic?

yes, i have been known to be 

the motor controllers is a common issue on these mills. i think i got more time out of mine than anyone in the machining forums. the other issue is that i think i might have popped my motor too! its upsetting to have to spend money on the item that makes you money lol. so to make it worthwhile, i decided to upgrade the board to handle a 1.5hp motor, and if my stock 1hp motor is bad i have an 1.5hp ebay purchase awaiting. more power is always good, and ive needed it a few times.

We keep taking out the motors we're using for the phase conversion.  I'm not the Electrical Engineer around here, but smoking out an entire pole barn can't be good.

Well, once again, i haven't been on the forum in a while, but i just read what i'd missed.  Those front caliper bracket adapters look really clean, are you planning on offering those up on here once your mill is running again?  just curious, i'd really like some bigger brakes in the front.   

Also, just some tire input since you guys were throwing sizes and drop #'s around.   I just finished putting my truck back together, UB machine tubular control arms with tall ball joints, 2" belltech drop spindles, 2" djm springs and tall lower ball joints.  basically a 4.5" drop give or take depending on if the coil springs has sagged any.  I tried running 245/45/17's on 8" wide rims, not sure of back spacing.  Anyway, the rubbing was so bad, that even slowing down for a stop sign, I was rubbing the inner fenders like crazy.  Tried driving it on the freeway and EVERY bump made the tires hit the inner fenders so hard that it boiled the paint on the engine compartment side of the inner fenders.  They're painted with POR15, super tough stuff, so you know it was rubbing extremely hard and very often.  I had to actually remove the drop spindles in order to get to a race event I had signed up for.  The truck was just undriveable with that much tire and drop.  I don't think offset would have fixed it either.  On sharp turns it would rub the fender trim and on the freeway, the tires were contacting around 4" of inner fender side to side when they would rub.  can't fix that with offset.

Anyway, my point is, I don't think you can get away with a real wide tire in the front of a first gen if you have more than 4" of drop, i'm going to swap to some stiffer 1" springs and put the drop spindles back in, so with that and the tall lower bj's i should be around 3.5", hopefully I can get away with that.    Hope that helps.

Also, i'm digging those rims you picked out, can't wait to see them on the truck.

rubbing inner fender just means you gotta relocate the inner fenders or just remove them.
i wouldnt really call that a clearance issue, it's just something that needs to be done on a lowered, wide tired car/truck.

Pfft, inner fenders are for off road use only.

We keep taking out the motors we're using for the phase conversion.  I'm not the Electrical Engineer around here, but smoking out an entire pole barn can't be good.

i have access to a really kickass and way over sized VFD. i could find a 3 phase cheap enough and make it 115fed, 3phase awesomeness, that would never break. but its just too much work right now, to many other projects, and im lazy. and yea whats with your engineers? phase converters arnt the most complex thing. and then that begs the question what and why are you phase converting?

Well, once again, i haven't been on the forum in a while, but i just read what i'd missed.  Those front caliper bracket adapters look really clean, are you planning on offering those up on here once your mill is running again?  just curious, i'd really like some bigger brakes in the front.   

yes, i have 4 sets 90% ready. i might just run em into work this week and finish them. the mill should be up this week anyway, controller will be here wednesday and i tested the motor with a 13A 12V supply. it SEEMS ok. hard to tell with only 12v. it runs just really slow and not smoothly.

Also, just some tire input since you guys were throwing sizes and drop #'s around.   I just finished putting my truck back together, UB machine tubular control arms with tall ball joints, 2" belltech drop spindles, 2" djm springs and tall lower ball joints.  basically a 4.5" drop give or take depending on if the coil springs has sagged any.  I tried running 245/45/17's on 8" wide rims, not sure of back spacing.  Anyway, the rubbing was so bad, that even slowing down for a stop sign, I was rubbing the inner fenders like crazy.  Tried driving it on the freeway and EVERY bump made the tires hit the inner fenders so hard that it boiled the paint on the engine compartment side of the inner fenders.  They're painted with POR15, super tough stuff, so you know it was rubbing extremely hard and very often.  I had to actually remove the drop spindles in order to get to a race event I had signed up for.  The truck was just undriveable with that much tire and drop.  I don't think offset would have fixed it either.  On sharp turns it would rub the fender trim and on the freeway, the tires were contacting around 4" of inner fender side to side when they would rub.  can't fix that with offset.

Anyway, my point is, I don't think you can get away with a real wide tire in the front of a first gen if you have more than 4" of drop, i'm going to swap to some stiffer 1" springs and put the drop spindles back in, so with that and the tall lower bj's i should be around 3.5", hopefully I can get away with that.    Hope that helps.

Also, i'm digging those rims you picked out, can't wait to see them on the truck.

i wanted to run zq8 springs to get the lower arm about level, but i have been debating going back to one of my other springs, especially for road course. mainly because i realized how low the front will be , which is fine, except i didnt want to run that much block in back to match the front. the zq8 is something like 585 lbs and i have a pair of 700 and 750lb springs iirc(i have the numbers written down somewhere), from a 96 std cab and my orginal 86 ext cab springs.

so what do you guys think? i still have the front end mostly apart and now would be the time to make a decision. i plan on reassembling the font end soon, i have the zq8s sitting in there. i think a larger tire will be more beneficial than another 1-2" of drop. maybe the 700 lb spring with half or so of a coil cut?

let me know how your experiment works out.

i want to keep the inners!

anyone ever see this guy on youtube?




raced the miata and the subaru yesterday. the sub pushes pretty bad. i have fully adj sways, need to stiffen the rear, or lighten the front. we broke the miata, so only got to run 4/6 sessions. the hub bearing is coming apart.



vid didnt come out for shit, bad spot for the cam. and for what its worth- kuhmo ecsta 4x tire cannot handle track abuse. not that performance was bad, they chunk.

i have access to a really kickass and way over sized VFD. i could find a 3 phase cheap enough and make it 115fed, 3phase awesomeness, that would never break. but its just too much work right now, to many other projects, and im lazy. and yea whats with your engineers? phase converters arnt the most complex thing. and then that begs the question what and why are you phase converting?

It's our personal work space, so we generally use what we have around.  Converting phases to run the 3 phase mill and other tools.

well that makes sense. i was under the impression this was an industrial building that was/should be wired for 3 phase.

i made some spacers for the blazer disc swap. i was going to make one like s10warehouse sells on ebay, just a square of 1/4" plate with a big hole in the middle and the smaller bolt holes. but it was much easier to just cut some washers out of some round stock.





im not sure if i mentioned it on this forum, but i have some issues with wear grooves in my axles shafts that are causing leaks. only one company makes the correct replacement shafts, theyre odd size. id rather get a different rear for what they cost. axle reapir bearings seam to have already been tryed in this axle by a past owner. so i figured out a seal alternative for my axle! i saved it for $11! this might help a lot of people in the future and is a much cheaper (maybe better) alternative to the axle saver bearings. unless of course you need bearings. i love the timken catalogs. ive used them to do so much sneaky mechanical shit like this over the years.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/pages/catalogs.aspx

so the seal that most s10 rears take(or that autozone, rockauto, etc will tell you it takes) is a timken 8660S. it is a "480" style seal. i noticed they offer a 710166 which is the exact same dimensions, just in a "740" style. see pic below. this moves the seal lips out just enough to be on virgin shaft. :haha: this is starting to sound dirty. i noticed rockauto lists it under the later models for 8.5s with a locker. which makes no sense as the seals are the same in all 8.5s except the zr2 which had a larger housing bore and axles according to rockauto. it seems to have taken care of my leak, at least until a groove wears at that spot.





heres the 8660s vs the 710166







and heres where the seal ends up. just right.





which allowed me to button everything up and install the brakes.











heres what frame clearance looks like. about 1". will probably hit with the bump stop buckets still attached.



i need to buy a dam camera, this phone shit sucks

Those are the seals I put on my 7.625 because that's what I took off them.  The ones that were on your axle is what the stores kept trying to sell me.  I liked the newer style because the way they seated on the axle.

exhaust guys i have questions. i was going to do a dual 2 1/4" with an x pipe, but it looks like i can do a 2.5" y into a single 3" much cheaper and easier. im under the impression a dual with an x pipe will outperform the y into a single, but is it worth the gain? is it minimal or is it large enough to offset the packaging issues and cost. im running a 335 with shorty headers. also where would i put the (1) wideband o2 in each system?

exhaust guys i have questions. i was going to do a dual 2 1/4" with an x pipe, but it looks like i can do a 2.5" y into a single 3" much cheaper and easier. im under the impression a dual with an x pipe will outperform the y into a single, but is it worth the gain? is it minimal or is it large enough to offset the packaging issues and cost. im running a 335 with shorty headers. also where would i put the (1) wideband o2 in each system?

personally i dont think duals are worth the cost/weight gain.
widebands should go as close to the merge as possible, same as the narrowbands.

I'll be running dual 2.5s on my blazer but ONLY because I'll be doing mufflers and dumps and going no even to the rear axle. If you're building a full exhaust, I would probably do a y-pipe and single 3" to save a couple bucks over a full length set of duals.