86 s15 v8 corner carver

yes, but 9" would require that they be 18s to clear the tie rod, which i suppose was doable, but hey this should work out for my goals. id rather get some ecsta xs in 245 before going to a street tire in 275.

but yes, miata

you don't want to deal with a touch more extra poke?
there's plenty of room to grow the wheel outboards to fit more rubber, but i do understand the concept behind why people dont like moving the scrub radius too much.
I've gone a bit too much on the blazer and its hurting my split mu surface performance a lot.

also, ecsta xs are fully street tires.
did you mean v710s?

meh, ive seen lots of rubbing issues with 275 front, more than i want to deal with.
i meant the xs. i guess they are classified as a street tire but i would have to disagree with that. i have them on the miata for the track and they are far more like track rubber than street.

I had rubbing issues on my 87 blazer, my 98 sonoma AND my 91 sonoma. All 3 were lowered 4-5" up front with 17x8 245/45 0 offset. I plan on tubbing the 91 this time around to run atleast a 9 up front.

Where were you getting the rubbing?

No rubbing issues with my 275s on 9" wheels.  275's on my 9.5" ones rub a bit though.  Neither is close to the tie rod either but I'm on stock spindles.

No rubbing issues with my 275s on 9" wheels.  275's on my 9.5" ones rub a bit though.  Neither is close to the tie rod either but I'm on stock spindles.

because 2nd gen. remember the first gen wheel wells are smaller.

All my trucks have rubbed on the inner fender/firewall foot area. As mentioned, even my 98 Sonoma rubbed with 2" spindles, 3" coils and a 245/45r17 on 17x8. Price you pay for being dropped 5"



sorry to hijack

sorry to hijack

it dont bother me.

rubbing and on a 2nd gen...     im glad i decided to ditch the zq8 springs

got my wilwood adjustable prop valve installed. i bent up some new lines for the rear, and ran the front directly to the master. cheap, easy, effective



conversion fitting stack


line routing

What all adapters did you have to use? This is something I've been trying to get through lately as well with the 3/8-24 at the master, wilwood using 1/8" NPT and others using AN-3 or 4. It actually seemed the easiest, though not the least expensive method would be converting to AN at each end and using either braided or those new teflon lines.

i got the prop valve that came with the 1/8npt to 3/8-24iff adapters. so from the master to the prop its just a standard 6" 3/8-24iff  line. from the prop valve to the rear line i used another 3/8-24iff standard line that is 20" long (maybe it was 24"?) to a 3/8-24iff female to 7/16-20iff male adapter that adapts to the fitting on the frame rail. so (2) 3/8-24 lines and 3 adapters. i almost went the AN conversion route, but i got this done so cheap and easy. but in the rear, since ive converted to discs and there is caliper movement, i need to use hoses to connect the calipers to the hardlines and i plan on going AN. speedway AN stuff is cheaper than getting SS lines for a blazer.

i bought a steering box today from a:
1984-'88 Monte Carlo/Malibu with Z65 suspension
1983-'88 Malibu, El Camino
1982-'92 Camaro except FE1 soft ride suspension
1984-'87 Regal with FE2 or FE3 sport suspension
1983-'84 Hurst/Olds
1985-'87 Cutlass with 5.0 (VIN code 9)
1982-'85 Trans Am
1986-'92 Firebird except FE1 suspension
1986-'87 Grand Prix with FE2 touring or F41 heavy duty suspension

i was going to get a zq8 box but they are a variable rate, and were $160 vs $115 for this one.


painted sum shit


final clearance looks good



everything moves real nice and clears the frame and LCA bolts wonderfuly




ran a rear line today, and the breather hose after cracking and scraping all the paint off of it. then i hit it with some armorall.


i need to start taking better pics again these look like shit

Does that include a core? I've now got two cores sitting around and hand't decided on which box I was going to use. I like the camaro box mainly because of the smaller valve they use which means a little more feedback than the ZQ8 box, however both are a straight 12:1. The regular S10 box, even the extreme blazers got, is variable 13-16:1.

Does that include a core? I've now got two cores sitting around and hand't decided on which box I was going to use. I like the camaro box mainly because of the smaller valve they use which means a little more feedback than the ZQ8 box, however both are a straight 12:1. The regular S10 box, even the extreme blazers got, is variable 13-16:1.

yes that is minus the core. it was $160 without a core and the zq8 was over $200 w/o a core.

orielly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/276550.oap?ck=Search_27-6550_-1_3573&keyword=27-6550

small update
i had to shorten the rods a bit. with them adjusted as short as possible, the wheels toed out a little. so i took 0.100" of each end for a total of 0.400", and they still need a little more taken off.

i got a chunk of money to spend and was going to get all the stuff to drop the motor in, but decided against it. i bought the chinese supplied summit sport seat over a year ago and was getting nervous that they may become unavailable or change, and i didnt want 2 different seats. so i bough the passenger seat and my shifter instead.

working off the drivers side bracket to get the passenger side dimensions all right was sooo much easier than making the bracket from scratch like i did on the drivers side. i think the pass side took 1/4 the time.


its starting to get cozy in there




since this truck is an aotomatic, and i still wanted as much shift control as possible, i went with the quicksilver ratcheting type. if you go back a few pages youll see where i setup my 700r4 for "shift command" with the transgo shift kit. when i put it in 1, 2 or 3, it is supposed to hold the gear at any rpm until i tell it to do otherwise. unlike most "bump shift" trannies that will upshift if you hit redline, or wont downshift if you are lugging it. in D, it acts like a normal auto. hopefully this all works as advertised as i cant have it shifting while im mid corner.




its the perfect size



mounted up for now. i had to poke the bolts through masking tape to hold them, so i could clmib out from under the truck and spin a nut on. i work alone.


i hate shit like this, triming countours. a pair of dividers makes it much easier. didnt get a finished pic, but i have a nice 1/8" reveal around the edges for carpet.
sry for the blurs


cleaned and painted the seat brackets. i set the height so that the top of the seat bottoms are at the same height as the stock seats, but now im wishing i set them another inch or so lower.

good work, i like the masking tape method. i usually try to deal with magnets and duct taped wrenches and 2x4s. poking thru masking tape may save me more time!

thanks green. it only works for small bolts though, and it helps if you poke a slit in the tape , or else the bolt just blows through it.

Looks great!  The seating arrangement seems like it may be a helmet-only affair unless you're going to have the seat pulled up quite a bit.  That cage bar is in an ideal skull splitting location.

That cage bar is in an ideal skull splitting location.

my exact thoughts when i stepped back and looked at it for the first time. i actually aimed to have the bar a bit behind the seat, but once i got it all in and with the seat reclined, your head lines up perfectly 

i will make the passenger always have the seat up a little, unless we are on the track with helmets. as far as me in the drivers seat, im tall with long legs, so it has to be all the way back when im driving. so yea, i may drive around town with a helmet, i may just pad the shit out of it. i dont know... one good t bone to the drivers side would be really bad.