Any updates on the truck?
yes, i have been neglecting this thread a little.
copy and paste from s10f.com
a few years back when i got the last of my motor stuff together i assembled the motor... makes sense. one day i was sitting there staring at it when i realized i never balanced it :rotf:. i figured when it was about ready to go in, id tear it back apart and have it balanced; that time has come. i wasted about $100 in gaskets and now i have to clean all the surafces again
. also, when i first envisioned this motor, i just wanted a well mannered high vacuum little torque-er, so it got an xe256 cam. well **** that, while its apart would be the time to make a change. after messing with some software and discussing it on pro-tourings10, i came up with the xe268. anything worth a dam duration wise has too much lift for the stock vortecs. this change necessitates the use of the LS2/6 beehive spring swap, which i was looking for an excuse to do anyway.
i removed one of the springs, valve and seal to see how the ST-2015 seal would fit. they dont. ive read a few threads where people had trouble and couldnt get them on w/o removing the retaining ring, and they were told to stop being a bitch. there is no way in hell these will go on without destroying them. i dont know if vortecs came with different seal boss diameters or what. in any case, the seals that were installed by whoever rebuilt these are not of the umbrella type and provided the clearance i need, so i didnt have to touch em. the st-2015 would have given me about 0.025" more over what ever these blue things are.
valves, springs, retainers and locks
exhaust valve closed. 0.690"
exhaust valve open. 0.117"
0.573" exhaust clearance. using comp cams recommendation of +0.060" minimum retainer to seal clearance on top of the max cam lift, that allows for 0.513" of lift.
intake valve closed. 0.687"
intake valve open. 0.085"
0.602", which would be 0.542" of lift.
my max lift is 0.486" yay.
random chamber pic
springs installed. only one went on hard.
:)got the rotating assy balanced and reassembled, installed the heads and valve train and the rods hit the now bigger cam! :rotf: i should have mocked it up first and possibly would have ground the rods, but too late now. so i ordered a custom grind small base circle cam from comp and now have 2 camshafts for sale if anyone is interested :haha:
this the the 262 sean grind for 335 stroker
new numbers
my machinist said the crank was way off. which i told him it would be seeing how the counterweights are cast for 4"+ bore engines and not 3.776".
i took a lifter apart and replaced the spring with washers to make it solid for pushrod length checking. i then used more or less washers and shims to figure out the rod length needed because i dont have an adjustable pushrod. 7.914", the closest is 7.900". the comp xe256 base circle is 1.238, i forgot what the xe268 was and i didnt write it down. the small base circle cam is 1.050".
i used sharpie brand machinists blue to check pushrod length
old cam was a little off with 7.800" rods
best i could get
this is the exhaust side with the same length as the intake side. taking a washer out and effectively making it a 7.854" rod made it just as bad on the other side(closer to the lifters), so im kinda of stuck with this pattern since rods are sold in 0.050" increments. it should move in a little since the rods are .014" shorter than what i simulated, and i can always preload the exhaust lifters another 1/8" turn or so more than the intakes.
got my push rods in, theyre pretty nice for $31. and the cam that looks like every other cam... but its not.
i degreed the cam today. i bought just the degree wheel, so i didnt have the crank socket that comes in the kit that the wheel is designed to fit. so i made a simple bushing.
my 0.0005" resolution dial indicator.
numbers
indicator readings
@59 degrees- 0.0100
@60 degrees- 0.0105
base circle- 0.0163
IVC @ 0.0060"=59.6 degrees. should be 59. the 0.6 degrees could be error in method, timing chain, cam grinding, etc. etc., its plenty close for me.
the engine is almost all closed up at this point, yay.
got the engine off the stand today, plugged the rear holes and bolted on the flywheel. i should have it in the truck tomorrow.
cheap flexplates. the bolt holes arnt chamfered which is no bueno
more better
ghetto crank stop
all plugged up
motor is in... kinda
2200 stall converter from BTO
this is my tranny meets engine rig
issues:
pass side exhaust pointing right at frame rail
motor mounts suck. i had to modify them so they wouldnt bottom out on the frame when using the lower position. i have the engine set as far to the drivers side as possible and this is my alignment. i should have just made my own.they are stealth/JTR.
there is enough room around the driver side collector to move the engine a little more to the drivers side. so im going to modify the mounts more to try to center the motor and see where that gets me. if that doesnt work, i may have to raise the motor to the upper position and beat the shit out of my firewall to make everything clear, but that has problems of its own id like to avoid. i have yet to even see if the distributor will go in.
also, the steering shaft hits the exhaust with the motor in the lower position and the cross member is wayyyyy off. like it got it from the wrong truck or something. if i dont have to raise the motor up for the exhaust, ill just move the steering column back down to where i had it when it was body lifted so it clears the header. i will be customizing the shit out of the cross member.
as of today-
after discussing it on s10f.com, i need to redo the motor mounts so the engine is centered and adjust the height to be in-between the current high and low positions, then see where the exhaust ends up. ill probably end up making a custom crossmemeber for the trans.
i assumed the custom cam was 1.050 base circle after grinding, so i checked length with the 256 and just used math. once i double checked with the custom cam and longer push rods actually installed, the intake(maybe it was exhaust) ended up a little to long. so i might get some 7.850" rods for the intakes(exhaust) valves.
ive been spending a lot time with the miata
