Alignment Shims / Stack baseline..

New member alert!

Just about done rebuilding the front end on my 2000 Xtreme ( 2.2/5 speed ) with the following:

Stock ZQ8 lower control arms w/ New Moog Bushings
Proforged tall lower ball joints
Dorman ZQ8 bump stops 
Moog 5658 springs
Belltech 2” Drop Spindles
UB Machine UCA w/ C10 Ball Joint ( Moog )

Does anyone have a measurement on their alignment shim stack?

I want to put a shim stack in each spot that gets me in the ballpark so I can drive it 10-15 miles to local alignment shop.

I am planning to have them set it up to the following specs:

- CAMBER = - 1/2 Degrees
- CASTER = + 5 Degrees Driver Side / + 5.5 Degrees Passenger Side
- TOE IN = 1/16” Total

Daily driven commuted. Want a little better handling. May autocross at some point but I need to address the rear suspension once done up front. Original owner and she has 370K so it’s time for a lil major upkeep.

Thanks guys! ( John )

It's really going to vary from truck to truck. Mine takes a lot of shims to get it roughly to the specs you listed. You can probably eyeball caster and toe enough to get it to the shop without hurting your tires.

just get toe close with a tape measure, your tires wont get eaten up even with terrible camber or caster in 15 miles.
why would you want to have a different caster right vs left?
if you are going to autox, i recommend going with at least zero toe.

It's really going to vary from truck to truck. Mine takes a lot of shims to get it roughly to the specs you listed. You can probably eyeball caster and toe enough to get it to the shop without hurting your tires.

I was expecting that answer. I appreciate the help!

just get toe close with a tape measure, your tires wont get eaten up even with terrible camber or caster in 15 miles.
why would you want to have a different caster right vs left?
if you are going to autox, i recommend going with at least zero toe.

From my experiences back when I did alignments I always offset caster a touch to compensate for the crown in the road. Just going off that. No other reason.

I will revise toe to zero.

Thanks guys! I finally have the suspension back together and on to steering rebuild now. Hoping a few more weeks as it’s only a few nights a week I get to tinker. I will just eyeball it all and get it to alignment shop.

Truck is done. Problem is the alignment shops cannot get the specs I want.

- CAMBER = - 1/2 Degrees
- CASTER = + 5 Degrees Driver Side / + 5.5 Degrees Passenger Side
- TOE IN = 1/16” Total

They were able to get 0 Camber and +4 Caster. Problem they say I have is the UCA is too close to the frame for free movement.

Do I trim the ball joint plate back in the circles areas on the UB Machine arms? Not sure how to remedy this one..

Weird, I run similar specs with my UB arms and I don't think mine are even close. I'll have a look at mine this weekend

If those control arms had droop stops I don't think that would be an issue.

Weird, I run similar specs with my UB arms and I don't think mine are even close. I'll have a look at mine this weekend

At ride height I have maybe 1/2" clearance. The pics are at full droop. Even at ride height it's closer than I would like.

I did speak with Greg Urbine @ UB Machine.

He suggested as most of their parts are built for racing some trimming of the ball joint plate will be OK. Just not to get carried
away.

So I have to get in there and trim them back some. See how much of the shock mount on the frame I can trim without sacrificing strength.

Otherwise it rides fine and handles great. Very happy with the swap so far.

If those control arms had droop stops I don't think that would be an issue.

Agreed. Pics are @ full droop. Even at ride height I only have 1/2" or less. This is with 0 camber and +4 caster both sides. And more of either and I lose clearance that I wouldn't risk trying to drive with.

I was messing around with ride height last night and took a look at the clearance on mine. I have piles of room at full droop, probably over an inch all around (although I can't recall exactly, it just looked like lots). My UB arms are ~8.5" from the center of the cross shaft to the center of the ball joint. It wouldn't surprise me if yours were different, mine were only the 2nd or 3rd set UB made for the S10's and ordering was a bit dodgy back then.

Interesting. I have plans to get in there this weekend and do some trimming.

I used part #'s: 15-0739-6R / 15-0739-6L

I will measure mine and see how they compare. You are running the C10 ball joints? I appreciate the information shared!

How many miles have you put on them? I daily my truck year round so trying to get an idea what I can expect out of them. Will be greased often but...

They didn't even have part numbers when I ordered mine, I just told them I wanted the tall BJ S10 arms that the guys on here designed.

I run a Howe BJ with a 0.5" taller stud and standard S10 mounting plate.

I probably have ~25K miles and 4 Canadian winters worth of daily driving on the UBM arms (I stopped winter driving the truck a few years ago). I grease them often but they're now starting to get loose fore/aft so I'll replace them soon. I've only put about 500 miles on the truck this year so it's not high on my priority list.   

They didn't even have part numbers when I ordered mine, I just told them I wanted the tall BJ S10 arms that the guys on here designed.

I run a Howe BJ with a 0.5" taller stud and standard S10 mounting plate.

I probably have ~25K miles and 4 Canadian winters worth of daily driving on the UBM arms (I stopped winter driving the truck a few years ago). I grease them often but they're now starting to get loose fore/aft so I'll replace them soon. I've only put about 500 miles on the truck this year so it's not high on my priority list.

I finally measured and have 7-3/4" between the center of cross shaft to center of ball joint.

Thanks for all of the info!

John

Seems like an 8" arm may be the sweet spot to avoid clearance issues and still get the best handling.