Gulstrand Mod on 2WD S10 Front suspension?

I'm not sure exactly how much room there is on upright for the upper control arm, but this seems like it would be a distinct possibility, anyone tried it?

For those of you not familiar, see here:

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_car_handling_tech/index.html

Haven't tried it, but I think theres enough room that it could be possible. And if it doesnt work for us, it wouldnt be hard to change back.

Doesnt it make it to where you dont need a tall upper bj?

while i believe it will work, the location of the holes would need to be studied in depth instead of just going by the Goldstrand location points.

anyone know the camber curve of a stock suspension s10?

and for my case, one with 3" coils? lol

If given enough measurements, I could tell you, very easily. I could use my current numbers for the spindle and I could look up enough pictures to get some very good guesses at the rest, but all told, if someone could just measure everything, it would go a long way.

Sorry, I had to steal a pic off this site. My son killed my flash drive with games. I lost all my porn and S-10 mod pics. You will see a mod that I routinely do. It improves the camber curve like the Guldstrand, but I build in a couple of other improvements. You will notice that the holes are shifted back to get the caster we want with far less shims, which can sometimes lock us into a camber number that we don't want. You will also see that the front hole has been moved downward 1/4" more than the rear has. This gets rid of some of the anti-dive properties of caster gain. Caster gain has a tendency to "de-wedge" the chassis and make it feel a little unsure when "dive bombing" a corner entry. So this will help.

This works extremely well with long lower AND upper ball joints, and even better with the B-Body tall spindle swap. This will still not get us into appreciable neg camber gain, but it is the best we can get due to the curvature on the shaft mount.

This is an impressive improvement over stock!

Sorry, I had to steal a pic off this site. My son killed my flash drive with games. I lost all my porn and S-10 mod pics. You will see a mod that I routinely do. It improves the camber curve like the Guldstrand, but I build in a couple of other improvements. You will notice that the holes are shifted back to get the caster we want with far less shims, which can sometimes lock us into a camber number that we don't want. You will also see that the front hole has been moved downward 1/4" more than the rear has. This gets rid of some of the anti-dive properties of caster gain. Caster gain has a tendency to "de-wedge" the chassis and make it feel a little unsure when "dive bombing" a corner entry. So this will help.

This works extremely well with long lower AND upper ball joints, and even better with the B-Body tall spindle swap. This will still not get us into appreciable neg camber gain, but it is the best we can get due to the curvature on the shaft mount.

This is an impressive improvement over stock!

did i mention that it's really great to have to you on the site!  lol

Could you try and make a template print out?  I'd like to try it out, I just don't know about how to get an alignment done afterwards.  most places around here don't like homemade modifications.  Do you know if this would work with stock uppers and lower arms? (I'm on a spending freeze at the moment.)

Theoretically, this type of modification is ideal for us budget strapped builders because it only costs time. Looking at my truck, I would definitely say this can be done with stock arms.

This will absolutely work with stock pieces. As a matter of fact, it gives you more clearance because you don't need the giant shim stack  at the rear to get your caster right(you will be using those at the front for camber).

There is no real way to get a pattern in there, so I just make the back of the old holes the front of the new ones and the bottom of the old holes will be the top of the new ones (+1/4" on the front holes)

The best thing to do for alignment is to find a friendly local circle track racer. He will have toe plates, turning plates and caster/camber gauges. Another couple of handy tools he will have are bump plates, scales and coil spring checkers.

Scales will be really important for your autocross deal. You will want to unhook the swaybars to get our corner weights while you are in the truck and the amount of gas you start the races with. Instead of cutting any spring to get the weight down on that wheel, you will want to space the opposite spring. Cutting a spring to adjust weight will get the static weight right, but the spring rate will change and throw your dynamics off. Now that you have a baseline that will of course be different when you get out of the truck, you can set your swaybar links so that they don't change your cross weights. This will give you neutral bar settings that will behave the same going right or left.

I will show you guys later how to take your ZQ8 rear bars from under 130 lb/in to 300+ lb/in

Made this as a quick reference and added it to my S10 Knowledge folder on my computer. lol

Thank you!! That's PERFECT!!

 Not all of these trucks are exactly the same, so you will want to make sure that your cross shaft will be sitting on the flat on those front holes and adjust as necessary. Pay attention on reassembly that your shims are seated flat (turn them sideways or trim the legs down). You may also have to grind a flat on that back bolt so it will seat completely as well.

Well.... it was perfect until I went to steal a copy and saw that the file name was Guldstrand mod instead of Kenny mod.........

Well.... it was perfect until I went to steal a copy and saw that the file name was Guldstrand mod instead of Kenny mod.........

lol, Kenny mod sounds fine to me, renamed it for ya.

Why thank you so much......... of course I've been married twice so I'm use to the double d's.........Disappointment and despair


That was fun. Please don't tell my wife..........

Yes, I think we're going to use your IP to track down your general vicinity and ISP, then use yellowpages.com to track any kenny's in that area and call acting like your ISP to gather information in order to track  you down and tell your wife. Or not, lol.

I know this is a old thread, but has any one tried this?

I have the holes drilled on my chassis, but it's still just sitting with no front suspension on it, the body in the air and the engine/tranny just bolted together for fitting.

I have the holes drilled on my chassis, but it's still just sitting with no front suspension on it, the body in the air and the engine/tranny just bolted together for fitting.

Would you still have the templates or did you make your own?

I didn't use a template, I used a set of calipers, a tape measure and the arms I'm using.

Cool wish my math was strong,but it isn 't. Thanks for the info.

Cool wish my math was strong,but it isn 't. Thanks for the info.

I have a serious case of OCD when it comes to things being square and alignments, so I went seriously overboard. It turned out that my passenger side needed to be 1/8" forward from the drivers side though, so my frame is obviously off by that much. A tape measure would probably cut it just fine.