I’ve been researching and putting together an easy budget 5.3 swap over the last year. All, but one swap I’ve seen so far has been north of $3k, which to me seems excessive seeing as there are a lot of 5.3s out there and it doesn’t take much fabrication or one off parts. My goal was to install the engine for under a grand. I’m not including the transmission because I have one that I already spent too much on. If you’re willing to run a stock auto from a full size truck I've seen them on Craigslist for under $500 making a full swap for under $1500. I have read of another pulling that off. A T56 will likely bump the budget to ~$2k, which is still much more reasonable than spending $3-5k on the swap.
I’m not done collecting the parts and as I go I may spend more money in some places than another could get by without spending. I’m looking at it from all perspectives to reduce the cost and make this more mainstream. I personally think it is more practical today than a 350. The electronics better integrate with 2nd gens, the engines are more efficient, and they are more powerful too. Since I will likely be helping Ryo do his swap as well I’m hoping to learn and share from that project too.
For both of our projects I am expecting to spend money on materials and do the fabrication of many things ourselves. This is where the most money can be saved especially for exhaust and wiring. There are definitely great products out there, but I think that they can be overpriced for someone who has the know how to do it themselves or is trying to get a budget project on the road. At the same time there are also some reasonably priced products out there that will allow the engine to bolt right in without extensively modifying the vehicle itself.
My Part Budget
Engine 500
Engine Pad 60
Frame Pad 60
Oil Pan 150
Fuel Filter 55
Driveshaft 100
Manifold 100
Exhaust 100
Misc&Ship 100
TOTAL: 1225
Budget is a bit higher than I want currently, but I’m hoping by smart shopping and reselling parts I don’t need that I can bring it back in line. So far I’m $75 under budget and haven’t sold anything off.
Engine:Both Ryo and I found ours on Craigslist. I searched craigslist, ebay, and car-part.com until the right engine came up. My backup was the LKQ location near me. They had many 5.3s priced between $300 and 500, but accessories, harness, and PCM were not guaranteed to come with the engine.
"The best 5.3"
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/5-3-engine-questions-392694/For ease of swapping, look for '02-'03.5 years 5.3L. In '02 that's when the intake manifolds got rid of EGR and continued to use the cable throttle body until midyear '03, when the whole system changed to drive by wire. That's all I'd bother focusing on, otherwise all the 5.3L's are pretty much the same until '04.5-'05 when the aluminum blocks started getting popular, heads were changed along with the flat top pistons and such.
Basically, any year will do, '02-'03.5 is the easiest.
I have a DBW engine and may have a trick up my sleeve to get it to work easily, but cable driven engines are the simplest and cheapest. EGR engines may be cheaper, but I’d rather not worry about running it or blocking it off. One may also want to shy away from too new of a engine because at some point after 2005 they switched to separate engine and transmission control modules, which don’t integrate AS easily into the S10 wiring. Since the budget calls for doing the wiring ourselves that is my suggestion.
Engine Mounts:I like the prices from the following site. Definitely could fab these oneself if really trying to squeeze the budget.
Full S10 ListFrame PadEngine MountOil Pan:The truck pan will need a notch in the frame, but I’m not a big fan of that, so I picked up the H3 pan kit from GM. I used a wholesale discount, but they’re available for about $150 or so from several places including the dealer. The Blazer frame pads sit higher than the S10s, so I’m not worrying about it hanging down unless I decide to lower the engine and the body (which may happen). In that case I will just add material onto the bottom of the engine cross member as well as add a skid plate for extra protection.
Here is the info I have on the H3 Alpha Pan (Prices are from gmpartsdirect):
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/h3-oil-pan-part-numbers-387309/ Full Kit: 19212593 - $125.80
includes pan, pickup tube, windage tray, bolts, dip-stick & tube.
gmpartsdirect says it is backordered by GM...
Oil pan: 12614821 - $101.17
Oil pump pickup: 12608593 - $23.11
Windage tray: 12611129 (Shared with C/K truck) - $16.75
Dipstick tube: 12584738 (Shared with Escalade) - $10.43
Dipstick: 12603506 (Shared with Escalade) - $10.07
O-ring for Oil pump pickup: 12584922 - $4.22
Fueling:Several of the LSx engine use a return-less fuel rail. If that is the case there needs to be a return somewhere else. The Vettes and the E85 S10 share a fuel filter with a regulator and a return. They’re about $55 and bolt right in place of the factory filter. Only a modification to the return line will be needed.
The engines with a return on the fuel rail can be run with the stock filter saving that cost, but you'll spend some of the budget on fittings to convert from the fuel rail to the factory fuel lines. On Ryo's I used rubber fuel hose and clamps to graft the stock 5.3 fuel lines onto the S10 lines.
CoolingStock 4.3 radiator can work with a stock clutch fan if it is recessed into the radiator and the engine is set all the way back. Don't actually have to cut out that much to get it to fit and the shroud can be cut down nicely for a near stock appearance. Steam vent can have a fitting tapped into the thermostat housing to avoid having a fancy hose splice instead.
Driveshaft:Swap could require a shorter driveshaft.
Ryo did not have to shorten his, but he used the original transmission and kept it in the factory location.
Exhaust Manifolds:Truck manifolds do not fit. Tested them on my spare frame and Ryo's truck and they interfered in many ways. A pair of LS1 Camaro manifolds with modifcations to clear the firewall seems to be the budget way to go. It may require steering shaft modifications or replacement, but I haven’t seen any definite answer out there. Ryo fabbed his own log manifolds, but I doubt he would recommended it to anyone even on a budget.
Some exhaust manifold and header comparisons for LSx swaps.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/exhaust-setups-355645/Car manifolds and claimed modifications to run them...
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/manifold-modifications-363537/Exaust:
99 F-body manifolds, modified. from there I used a flowmaster 2.5" universal kit with all madural bends. pieced the the exaust together myself. runs over to the passenger side, h pipes the runs throught 2 magnaflow mufflers exiting with turndowns at the rear end.
Clearing Jeep style steering shaft
Modifications
Exhaust:I haven’t completely decided on the route I want to take. Options I’ve contemplated is finding a stock Truck Y-pipe and modifying it, buying some bends off ebay or the like and making my own, mocking it up using dryer ducting and getting it bent by a shop, or any combination of the three to make the full exhaust.
Wiring:My
LSx Harness ReworkSpent about $25 on new wiring pins and some connectors, but could solder to shorten or lengthen wires.
Power Steering PulleyFor extra clearance to the steering box a Ford van pulley can be used. Dorman part number is 300-201 and can be used with a 915K6 serpentine belt on the truck accessories.
Misc & Ship:I wanted some overflow spending for any fasteners, fittings, metal, belts, shipping, etc. I may need.
My Current Budget:
Total by
TheHarley, on Flickr
Misc Expenses:
Misc by
TheHarley, on Flickr
I still haven't sold the manifolds or oil pan, but hoping I can to pad the budget some more. I'll just have to expand my listings past Craigslist.
