Project: Modify everything, even the aftermarket parts to fit...

FEB does make multiple different hubs, the one I got is called c4/c5/c however he does have a c4 specific hub.

did not know that. im curious what is different. in either case i use the same hub for c5/c6/ls1.

I'd bet the only difference is that .300 offset added. I really like my rotors though. I think I'll try that test fit, if it does end up being just the right offset, I'll do spacers with locators. It's the least expensive option, gives me the best wheel clerance and I do actually need to push the wheels out a bit, so that extra .300 should work nicely. Last but not least, some .300 spacers will be by far and away the cheapest option.

it would appear he adds 1/4" to the hub, as the rotors are already 0.300". so are these custom castings? or does he add a spacer?


"Custom hubs, 13" C4 HD brakes...     ....NOTE: Kit will add roughly .550" to front track width per side...."

They are definitely a custom piece for the C4s, I heard from someone on another forum that did the same thing by accident, there are a couple pictures of the correct C4 hubs on his website, I ordered the wrong part number.

Got the body set down and even after grinding the hell out of the seam at the front of the tunnel, it's sitting on the trans. I'm going to have to do something about the motor mounts, engine is just too high in the frame. Advice?

Looks like plenty of room in the engine-side mount to drop it.  That's what I did for my Blazer 5.3 mounts.  If we were living the dream and had a CNC machine up and running already I'd jump right away at the opportunity to design you some 350 drop mounts.  That and I have no dimensions either.

I only really have room for about a half inch without compromising the integrity of the mount really, and I want it down closer to a full inch.

Just have to make or remake your own mounts and add material in where you need it.  That's the plenty I'm thinking of.

Ah, yeah, picked these up a couple years ago from someone here, find there are apparently two designs for 2wd mounts floating around now, these are the high mounts. JTR, CSI all those guys are selling the low ones, and are $60. That sounds a lot like $60 towards my welder justification program.

Got the new engine mounts in from JTR and they don't look like they'll be sitting any lower than the previous ones. Looks like I need to find a welder up here and cut up my frame side mounts to move the bushing lower on them.

Got the C5 rotors in the other day and finally got them mocked up last night, fit perfectly, but they do look a bit small in my 18s, which is a bit disappointing, but I'm sure they'll stop nicely.

Ran into an odd problem, though, my master cylinder doesn't fit in the hydroboost as I thought it would, so I guess I'm going to have to hit the yards for a master cylinder that will work with it, or trim down the OD so that it'll fit, it's damn close.

I'm typically for the vote that you just buy a new MC, not worth the effort of troubleshooting again later down the road when the old MC goes bad.
They just aren't expensive enough to be worth the small cost savings

This MC had less than 10K on it before tearing the truck down, was hoping to re-use, but if I can't, then I can't. I'll hang on to it for the white blazer, it'll need one eventually.

Which flat top MCs fit these? Diesel silverados with the turbo 6.5L right?

And found my new little press just is not set up to do ball joints and bushings, going to have to dig up some scrap steel to make some fixtures to pull it off, very frustrating! Not sure I'll screw with it over the next day or two while I'm off work, I think I'll opt for drilling and cleaning up the spindles and getting them and the hubs painted ready for final assembly, and getting the engine mounts swapped over to the JTR mounts, getting the headers on and trying to get the final position for the engine/trans set so the front end can start going back together. Really need to get the full weight on those new front springs to see where they settle.

I really need to remember to do more posting in this thread, and take some damn pictures, will update later today!

Yes please. 

So, where to start? I moved again, first picture is of the new house. I'm up in the white mountains now, gives me a lot of great weather, which has meant a lot of great progress.

Ended up having to put body bushings back in, it's going to be mostly street driven now, so that works well and gave me the clearance I really needed for the passenger exhaust.

My vacuum brake booster is back in, it fits with the V8, will be staying in till I replace the steering box and convert to all AN lines, so long as as I can get the vacuum plumbed from my intake manifold which has but one manifold port for vacuum.

Inner fenders are long gone, so if rocks become too big an issue, I'll have to figure out something.

Radiator is fully recessed into the core support, as far as it'll fit without drastic enough trimming to push the end caps through it, with custom aluminum brackets that also retain my dual electric fans.

Suspension is mocked up, lowers are going to be the old stock lowers for the moment, I'm saving up for a set of Global West Delrin bushed Lowers. I'm just all kinds of unhappy with the fit and finish of the steel bushings and the factory lower control arms. I tried to save a few bucks and shot myself in the foot.

I'm also going carbed because I'm just sick of trying to get sensors into this damn intake manifold. Getting a Street Demon 625, more than enough air for my 305 even at 6700rpm, which it likely won't see.

Got a TCI gate shifter for my 700R4, it's incredibly well built for the price, every bit as good as the B&M units I've paid twice as much for back when I was a "baller".

I built myself a kick ass workbench, after I clean it up, I'll get some pictures up.

I got the old V6 up on the engine stand now that the 305 is off it for good. I'll start tearing it apart as soon as I have spare time.

I'm sure I've done a lot more as I've spend 5-6 days a week, 3-12 hours a day in the garage, mostly on it, but I can't even think of the rest of what I've done. Suffice it to say, I'm ordering a few more items, including the carb today/tomorrow and deciding on tires.

The rear end is going to stay stock just until I know the front is on and running, then it'll start getting hacked up. My main delay is twofold, deciding on gear ratio, and deciding on rear springs. I can flip my front brackets and switch to a slider in the rear which will get me a lot of drop in the rear, especially with ZQ8 coils, but I want the rear to be pretty soft considering the weight I've taken out, I really want it to ride halfway decent and let the swaybar do a lot of the hard work. Since I have all the parts, it's likely that I'll flip the mounts, throw in the ZQ8 leafs with the setback spacers I have, get the swaybar installed and just see how it goes from there.

I did pick up the S10 tru dual exhaust from Summit, everything on it looks really good, I plan on starting to test fit it just as soon as I get a set of flanges to actually clamp the downpipes in place. It will most likely end up dumping in front of the rear axle, which will leave me with some spare rear sections, but we'll see just how bad the fit is back there with the blazer tank. I don't really want all the extra weight, but pipe distance behind the muffler can make a big difference in overall sound, which does have to matter.

Oh, and the new title comes from a short conversation my old lady and I had recently. I bought a new prop valve bracket from ebay for about $13, it had the general characteristics I wanted, so I grabbed it. As soon as I got it, I cut and re-drilled the main holes that mount it to the MC to move it closer by about 5/8", then found a hole I could use in it, drilled a new hole for the second hole in the prop valve, hacked off about half the length of the bracket because it wasn't necessary anymore and it's total about half the size it started as and I'm only using one hole that actually came in it, which she found hilarious. I wasn't expecting to do so much to it, or I would have made my own bracket out of some aluminum, but it is what it is. She then asked which parts I had bought for the truck that I was able to use without modifying at all. All I could come up with were upper ball joints and control arms. Everything else has been modified.

Oh and to get the engine lower, I flipped the frame side mounts, drilled new holes, and brought it down the better part of half an inch, it's exactly where I wanted it now.

Nice looking spot! Great progress too 

Wow.  Wasn't expecting that kind of progress.  Great work especially with another move.  That engine bay looks quite empty even with a V8.

What's the plan with the old V6?

Wow.  Wasn't expecting that kind of progress.  Great work especially with another move.  That engine bay looks quite empty even with a V8.

What's the plan with the old V6?

Getting rebuilt for the white blazer. The v6 that then comes out of that one won't have a home right away. May use it for an atv build, but after I do the engine in the white blazer, I will start on the 75 old's.

And the engine bay is really empty right now is why, lol. No AC in it as of now, will have to work out some kind of pulley on the pass side if it doesn't go back in. Will be looking for a heater only box in the valley next time I'm down there.

Status report, I have a coolant leak at the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side. Intake manifold will have to come back off. I have a spare set of gaskets for it and most of a can of sealant left so I'll get it pulled tomorrow.

Tie rods I bought are just too long, I cut them down as far as I could safely and they just won't work, I'll be ordering a new set, but probably not till next month.

Exhaust doesn't fit for shit. It's clearly made for trucks and them showing it as fitting the blazer *with modification* basically means you'll be cutting up every single tube to make it work. I've got an idea how to fix it, but there will be a lot of left over pipe when I'm done. Will be dumping just in front of the axle.

Fuel system is plumbed, haven't leak tested it yet because the battery relocation kit was backordered, but I should have it next week. It's looking like I'll be relocating the under hood breakout as well, need it up at the drivers front to join all 4 fuses I have there(low beam, high beam, horn and fuel pump relay) to a 6 gauge that will join hot at the starter, along with the alternator. 2 gauge from battery starter, 6 gauge to each the alternator and that breakout panel. I have a ground/limiting strap from the frame to the front of the engine block, in one of the large bolt holes of the mechanical fuel pump block off plate. It's a ground and limiting strap off a 737 forward engine mount, their rated so 2 of them handle the high voltage ground of the engine starter and the APU on those and the engine mount isolator can completely fail without the engine dislodging till they can land, so it should work for me. I don't recall the exact strand count, but it's nickel plated copper, dual flat weaves about an eighth thick and inch wide.

I'll get some more pics next week after I get the headlight and wiring parts in and it looks truck like. Air cleaner is still on a hellish backorder, but it's not like I'm in a dire need of it right at the moment anyway.