Project: Modify everything, even the aftermarket parts to fit...

Still having a major problem with the engine. VERY frustrating. I keep fixing what seems to be wrong only to have it run perfectly for a day and next weak link pops up. Ignition has been replaced, IAC has been replaced, full oil change, full coolant flush with new 180* thermostat, checked the coolant temperature sensor on the intake, have checked for vacuum leaks several times, vacuum looks good, and have replaced the O2 sensor. Attempted to pull the EGR yesterday, spent two hours dicking with it and got next to nowhere, worse if anything. Have to get out a bolt with a rounded off head, so I can move some ground wires, so I can get the EGR off, so I can clean\replace it. I suppose TPS and or MAP will probably be next.

Hopefully a point comes, and soon, that I can fix the suspension a bit, make it a bit safer, then start saving up for the new engine, which was supposed to be next winters project, but hopefully will come towards the end of this winter.

Have you made sure all the sensors are plugged in well?  Any codes thrown?  I had a loose map causing an intermittent running problem once.  I went as far to cut out and replace the cat before I ran the codes and did a face palm after plugging it back in fully.

They all seem to be, I've checked every connector that's hooked up to something. I've got a few loose connectors from where I removed the cruise control, would having that just not hooked up to anything cause an issue?

I'm thinking I'm going to make an ALDL tomorrow and see if that will help me figure out what's going on with it, and read codes.

Wow, amazingly, 4.8s and 5.3s go for pretty much the same price around here, and a good running engine is under $500 from most of the yards. I don't think it includes a complete harness or ECM, but for those wanting to go carbed, it's really cheap.

I doubt the cruise would cause a problem since it uses a cable to actuate the throttle body.  I'm guessing you sealed up the vac line for it since you said you tested for vac leaks.  I've got my ABS removed and disconnected on my 1st gen with no problems/codes.

I'm pretty sure my S10 is OBD-1, but I just put a jumper across two pins on the diagnostic plug and it flashed me the codes.  I don't remember if I used the Haynes or the factory service manual I have to read them, but you could do that if you're waiting to make the cable.  I'm sure the codes and a how to are pasted on the internet somewhere too.

Yeah, I've heard tell of this on the interwebs before. Jumper the A and B pins on the connector and turn the key to on and it it will flash the check engine light for each code 3 times.

I think I'm going to test my TPS and MAP as soon as I get home, if they're fine then I'm going to make the ALDL, should take me less than an hour to get it up and running. I've got a list of the parts and the local RadioShack is my favorite store in town. They sell ammo and targets!

Update time. I now have an OBD1 live monitoring station in my garage.

My laptop didn't have a serail connector(*&#%^&!@$%@$@^%&@%%$@$!^%%@$!) so I grabbed an old desktop I happen to have sitting around and hooked it up with a monitor and spare keyboard and mouse in the garage on one of my carts. Luckily the cable I built is really, really long. Hooked everything up and VIOLA, rich/lean counter is going crazy, full 250+ counts every two minutes, tops. so I'll be buying\borrowing a fuel pressure test kit in the morning on the way home. For tonight, I'm going to learn more about this software, so I can be as effective as possible now that I have this great tool.

My ALDL cable is home built, running off power from the serial connection, and fully integrated to the truck, running through the dash from a hardwired connection to the OBD1 port wires and residing in the glove box. This was so simple to build and came out so clean looking, I'm thinking of selling these buggers. Certainly if anyone on this site wants one, just let me know, I'll sell one to any established member of this site at cost.

Sounds very trick.  I'd ask for one if I wasn't planning on swapping in a much newer 4.3 in my 1st Gen as soon as I can.  Amazing how much easier these things are to diagnose with the right diagnostic tools; factory service manuals, OBD connections, etc.

Well, I tried everything I could manage, including trying a brand spanking new ECM, and I couldn't fix the damn thing. So, I took it over to a dealership that my family has been working with for almost two decades, and talked to our service guy Charlie, and they're going to give it the once over, figure out what's wrong with it for me. It's only gonna cost $60 and they've got a rolling road and those $40K diagnostic machines that attach to almost every wire in the car\truck and sort out what's going on. Dropped it off this morning and I should hear back tomrorrow. They're really good about understanding when a repair cost is not feasable too, very no pressure kind of place. Here's to hoping it's something minimal!

IT RUNS! Not well, but it does, and it doesn't die. I picked up my truck from the dealership, who didn't charge me a dime because they couldn't properly diagnose it, for a few reasons. After I got it home, which was exhausting, I ran up to a yard a couple miles from my house to pick up an ECM, for dirt CHEAP I might add, plugged it in, let it sit on the floor and ran it around a bit, it's got a fueling problem, but it'll idle nice and clean and not try to die any more, so it was apparently a combination of a dead primary prom and the incorrect limp home chip that caused my main issue.

Fueling issues will be worked out independantly, I'm going to rebuild the throttle body over the next two days, find out if the FPR spring is bad.

I'd be more inclined to think it is the fuel pump before anything else, but you might have checked the fuel pressure already.  In my quick skim through your thread again I didn't notice it.

It's definitely possible, I did try to test fuel pressure at different points in the system, but the tester I rented from autozone was plugged and wouldn't register pressure at all. I may try again, or I may just get\make a fuel pressure tap so I can have a fuel pressure guage inline indefinitely.

or I may just get\make a fuel pressure tap so I can have a fuel pressure guage inline indefinitely.

That gets my vote.  Remind me to add that to the to do list on the 5.3 swap.

or I may just get\make a fuel pressure tap so I can have a fuel pressure guage inline indefinitely.

That gets my vote.  Remind me to add that to the to do list on the 5.3 swap.

I already bought the gauge

Since I have my whole TB apart right now I'm looking for a place to tap for a guage, and I'm not liking most of my options quite frankly. I may just be ordering that part from CFM pretty quickly.

Well, I decided to just do an inline tap for the guage, I have a spot picked out for it just behind the alternator that will make it easy to read, and I got the parts for it from summit for about $40 shipped, should be here today.

The throttle body is completely rebuilt. I got the throttle shaft drilled and tapped to 3mmx.5 with some nice button head screws installed. I also made the fuel pressure regulator adjustable and drilled through the base of the fuel pod, between the inlets, so I can slide a tool in while on the truck to adjust fuel pressure. Besides those little things, it's a stock re-build.

I do however believe that the spring inside my regulator is likely not the right spring, it seems excessively long and much stiffer than need be, but I will find out for sure when the gauge arrives and can get installed.

Well, I intentionally installed the spring a bit softer than where I took it out at, and according to my new guage, it's dead on a 10psi, and the new computer is adapting quickly. I'm going to do another series of runs over the next couple of days to check everything out, but it's running pretty darn well.

This should hopefully mean that I can finally start investing in the front suspension\steering.

Steering will have to be first, much to my chagrin. The box in the truck is bad and the play in the steering is 30*+ each side of centered, which just isn't safe. So I've begun saving up for a new steering box. I can't quite decide which direction to go though. I need to get in touch with Lee later this week and talk to him about a custom 670 box. I really hate the price, but in the case of steering, I know you get what you pay for, I've been on the wrong side of that equation before and learned my lesson. I am still considering an AGR box, they just don't make the one I want, I would have to choose between the 200 and 220, where I really wanted a 210-215. A new, matched, box and pump would be ideal, but I realy don't know if I can talk that kind of coin out of the old lady, not yet at least. Early next year when we get the $8K from the gubmint for buying a house, and some debt can go away, I'll have some actual coin to put into this.

I'm waiting for some information back from Western Chassis, they make drop rear leafs in 3 and 4 inch drops, and some reasonably priced drop coils. I had contacted speedway motors, and they informed me that they're just distributing for Western, so I sent them an e-mail directly, and I'll let you know what I hear.

I have changed plans, yet again, back to a 9.5" front spring with an adjuster, mainly because I've decided to drop my front spring down to 650lbs to start with. I was able to verify roughly that the stock springs I have are about 710lbs/in and I would like a bit more give on bumps, and to rely on the roll bar more for corners. I do subsribe to the SSBB theory. Unfortunately I can not find a rear bar, anywhere in the valley. I'm going to have to keep my eyes out for one because there were a couple not too long ago, but they've apparently dried up completely.

I'm also re-thinking my Delrin bushings. just considering all the options. I found a set of tubular LCAs by UMI for about $300 shipped with nothing but some minor scratches. I really like this idea for two reasons. #1, the busihngs would be fully supported across the width and #2 I could easily use a 2-piece bushing to allow easy greasing from the center and negate any endplay or binding in the LCA. Plus they save 4lbs in unsprung weight per side. They don't have a gorgeous swaybar mount like the Global West parts, but that seems like a very easy modification if I find someone locally who can tig well.

i would strongly suggest that you look into the ZQ8 box.

ive bough custom boxes before, and used stock ones. the ZQ8 box in my truck will give my 500 FFI stage 3 a severe beating when it comes to drivability for the dollar. for what a custom box xosts, and what you get, theres just no reason not to use the ZQ8. and they bolt in, use the stock pump and hoses, and you have no dicking around waiting on parts, cutom fabbing, etc.

also, look into the jeep steering shaft mod. the rag joint, no matter how good it looks, has some play in it. even brand new.

michael

I've been really considering it. I'll see if I can't find one that's in good shape. There are only a handful in the area, though they are incredibly well priced compared to the last time I looked.

ZQ8 box found locally, however my ideas for a fully adjustable tie rod link have proven of inconclusive if any use, however I do still like the rebuildable aspect of my previous design and will likely go ahead with purchasing the necessary parts. This will mean that when I do build a new center link, I won't have to change out any parts to get it in and aligned. New steering components will be going in over my next set of days off.