Project: Mistress

IMO the parasitic drag on the engine is very little until you are turning and/or braking with the hydroboost.

Those rods are sexy....lol, that sounds so fucking gay

You are probably right,a few other reasons for no power crap under there means less crap under my hood,less weight,less hoses,less shit to spring leaks.Hell with all that crap gone I may put the fender wells back in.....I doubt it,but it could happen!


I aint even gonna start the gay shit wit ya...although if anyone would know whether it was gay or not it would be you...just kiddin bro!Lmfao!!!

haha

I understand the leak worry with the HB.

Looks awesome so far! 

I thought 400hp NA on a 4.3 was a stretch but 1fast4by on s10forum is putting down 300+ to the rear wheels BEFORE spray on his build.  That's up in the high 300's at the crank.  He said it was straight forward, pm him if you want more info. He's great for helping anyone who's serious about doing something similar (which you obviously are!).

Thanks Tyson,I'm not a member over there,but I guess I should sign on ,if for no other reason than to maybe pick his brain a bit.

Ok I know some are not Moog fans,but oh well.I ordered the Moog equivalent of the fa903 today for my UB Machine uca's today.I think maybe next week ppm tall lowers.Suggestions for the lca bushings?Would really like to do ALL of the steering parts in ppm(extreme duty parts).

lower bushings I'd go with delrin. Steel is fine for the uppers, but delrin will have just a little bit of give on a really harsh hit that may help keep something from breaking. Avoid poly unless you don't mind getting under it every two to three weeks to grease them. Poly will bind if it's dry. Delrin, depending on the grade, is self lubricating, you could technically do without a brass bushing against the bolt, but you're better off with. If you can get a hold of some, the bolts with zerks and grease passages would be helpful for greasing the brass. That combined with a press in delrin bushing will mean all the rotation will be done in greased brass against steel, and the delrin will just handle lateral loading.

Are the Delrin something that I would get from,like say,ppm?I really am suspension stupid,get past a set of lake slapper bars and I'm lost!

mcmaster has delrin

This what I'm looking for,correct?Anybody know of anything different,or a different place to get them?Is that for both,or do I need 2 kits?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GLS-1027/

i wentr with moog problem solver LCA bushingsfor mine. nice and stiff, quiet, and still have a bit of gove.

if youre builing more for track, id agree with artos. if its a 99.9%street truk, id go with something like the moog.

Steel FTW!!!
http://www.protourings10.com/smf/index.php?topic=180.0
lol

If I'm not mistaken the Moogs are a high desity polymer rubber, much better than the cheap low-desity rubber from the factory, but subsequently have a higher friction co-efficient against steel as well, so they're going to chew up grease a bit faster, well worth it IMHO. They're still going to have more than double the give of the delrin by my best guess.

I like those global west bushings, but I'm not completely sure of them yet, they use very little delrin and it looks like they're using a press fit aluminum or steel for the inner and outer surfaces, and delrin for the rotational as well as lateral loads, which would work, but will wear the delrin out much faster than brass for the interior. Not a bad design at all. One thing I would watch out for though is that the G-bodies use a smaller bolt in the front leg of the lower control arm than the S10s do.

If I'm not mistaken the Moogs are a high desity polymer rubber, much better than the cheap low-desity rubber from the factory, but subsequently have a higher friction co-efficient against steel as well, so they're going to chew up grease a bit faster, well worth it IMHO. They're still going to have more than double the give of the delrin by my best guess.

I like those global west bushings, but I'm not completely sure of them yet, they use very little delrin and it looks like they're using a press fit aluminum or steel for the inner and outer surfaces, and delrin for the rotational as well as lateral loads, which would work, but will wear the delrin out much faster than brass for the interior. Not a bad design at all. One thing I would watch out for though is that the G-bodies use a smaller bolt in the front leg of the lower control arm than the S10s do.

Yes sir you are correct,they do use press fit alum housings,not so sure I care for that.Don't think I am going to go with the steel,Eric,But I do think that I am going to go to Southwest get the delrin bushings.Picked up the Moog c10 uppers today(K6136).

Southwest was a great company to deal with, just don't ask them any questions, everything is "race only"....lol

Yeah I hear ya,I pretty much got the same answer from the first dick I talked to a UB Machine before I talked to Tony,since you gave me the part numbers,really no need to talk to anyone,just order parts.Man the c10 ubj's a huge compared to the stock s10 bj's!

Cam is back,slightly smaller than expected,but with the 1.6 rockers still gives me almost identical profile as the 280hr.Lower end is together.Pic of long block.Any guesses as to what kind of hp I'll get,cause I aint got a clue!

I can run the numbers on it, just need to know what pistons and head gaskets you're using as well as if the deck or heads have been milled, the exact specs on the cam and at what degree you installed it.

Deck and heads not milled,gaskets unknown(fel pro pretty sure,don't know the thickness)The pistons are 10.5:1 KB Icon's for an sbc,have to ask my engine builder about the degreeing.Specs on cam are almost identical to CompCams 280hr.Sorry not more specific.

Well, I can make some guesses, it'll be better than nothing. And never trust KB's rated compression ratios. I have yet to figure out what heads they use, let alone any of the other dozen components needed to figure out compression ratio.

Assuming the cam is straight up, and the fel-pro's are 4.03 bore and .043 thickness, you'll be right at 11:1 and making right about 280ft/lbs @4000 and 275hp @6000.

Just for fun I threw in a 50HP shot of laughing gas and got 352ft/lbs @ 3500 and 325hp @ 5500-6K. It should take roughly a 125shot for 400HP and 450ft/lbs, but that is really pushing it on a stock crank and 11:1 compression.