Project WTH?

I thought I would start a project thread on my Blazer.  I asked my wife what she thought I should name the project and she came up with "Project What the Hell" for a couple reasons.  1) When it's done, that's what most poeple will say when they see it.  2) Every time I go to work on something on the vehicle, something screws up and I want to scream, "What the hell?!"

I'm going to reiterate some info from new member post on the old side so bear with me.

My Blazer is a 2002 two door, 2WD, with the 5-speed.  I has the Z85 suspension, 8.5" rear end, G80 posi, and GU6 3.43:1 gearing.  It doesn't have cruise, power door locks or power windows or a rear window wiper.  Pretty stripped down model.

The plans are to lower it, turbo it, and make it into a semi-Xtreme clone.

Here's how it looked most of the time I've owned it.


I removed the roof rack and plugged the holes and I also removed the chrome trim around the headlights and the chrome bar across the grill. (I kind of have a hatred toward chrome. I'm not totally against it but try to keep it to a minimal amount.)


I then totalled my WRX in July and got a check from the insurance company and bought an expensive pile of stuff.  In the pile is a marine intake, Zoom replacement clutch, QA1 coilovers, 3" lowering blocks.  Not shown is the HP Tuner box.


Next, I got a repop of an Xtreme grill from eBay for cheap.  Even not painted, the new grill looks much better.



Then while walking through Summit Racing looking for trans fluid, they had some clearance tables out and I just happened to find some goodies.  I picked up a set of returned clear markers for $20.  Not bad I thought, until I came across a slightly uses pair of 25mm Eibach wheel spacers for $25 (the retail at $202!)


The marker lights had small fitment issues but nothing a couple files and time couldn't fix.  Now the front of the truck looks more complete.  I still need to get the grill color matched though.


That's all for tonight.

Later, Doug

It's disgusting how similar my truck is to yours stock.  Keep updating even though it's been a painful process so far.  I've learned so much about mine from screwing up.  Apparently I've changed my serpentine belt so many times I can swap it out in the time it takes my friends to blink.

Excellent find on the wheel spacers!

Here's some info from the old site.  I'll save of you guys some time by just copying/pasting the pertinent info here...

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 7:33 am 
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Well, I went to Summit Racing (it's 5 minutes from my house) and ordered the QA1 coilovers with 550lb/in springs, and took home a set of 3" angled Belltech blocks and a Zoom clutch. They said the coilovers should arrive in a couple weeks.

I went with the 550lb/in springs becuase some of the people I've talked to have 700lb/in springs and others had 350lb/in so I split the difference. If I don't like it I can always buy different rate springs.

Later, Doug


Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:01 pm 
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Well, I got my QA1's installed and have to say I'm not impressed but it could be my fault. I ordered them with 550lb/in springs instead of the recommended 350lb/in springs. I have the spring seats 4.25 turns from the bottom and the ride height is the same as before.  So I either have to buy softer springs or get another setup such as drop coil/spindles. It really sucks since I spent two full evenings and close to $500 (coilover kit, spanner wrenches, and thrust washer kit) to basically ended up where I started.

I guess I should just get the 350lb/in springs and install those. Any other suggestions?

Later, Doug


Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:21 am 
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Harley wrote:
"What kit and/or spring did you purchase? A lot of the higher rate springs are actually shorter than the softer ones. I could barely get my 350s on the first time because they were so long.  It has definitely settled some for me over time too."


I bought the kit with the 550lb/in springs which is 200lb/in heavier than what QA1 recommended. I e-mailed QA1's tech and here is what they said,

"From your research you are aware that we offer several different spring rates based on the actual front axle weight of your specific vehicle. The GMP1550-3 has a 550lb./in spring. That spring rate is rated for a front axle weight of 2101-2300 lbs.
You did not state the actual front axle weight of your specific vehicle. If your vehicle's front axle weight is less than 2100 lbs., it will result in a stiff ride with very little ability to lower the vehicle.
Because every vehicle is different, we do not have the ability to specify a spring rate based on generic OE weights.

The springs will not "settle". Once the vehicle weight is on the spring, they will compress based on the weight that is applied vs. the spring rate.

Based on your comments, it sounds like the spring is too heavy for your specific application, thus the tall ride height. We strongly encourage our customers to scale the front axle at a local scale such as a truck stop, recycling yard, moving company, grain/feed mill, etc. Once you have the front axle weight, the correct spring can be specified for your vehicle.

With the correct spring for the appropriate application, you will be able to achieve the vehicle stance, handling, and ride charactaristics that you are looking for. The adjustable shock valving will allow a broad range of adjustment to suite your needs.

If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me directly.

Thank you.

Reed Styve
QA1 Motorsports
Technical Dept. "


So I'm thinking that I should buy the 350lb/in springs and sell off the springs on there now.


s-10driver wrote:
"i've been looking the options, but can't really figure out which rates are the best. "


If you are planning on lowering the truck at all using the coil springs don't get the 550lb/in rate unless you plan on dropping in a SBC. I've done quite a bit of searching but can't really find a whole lot of info on how the 350lb/in springs work for auto-X or road courses. I haven't seen anyone complain that the rates are too soft. But I also know that higher spring rates help with body roll and I'm worried that a softer rate (than OEM) with a stock OEM anti-roll bar is going to roll more into corners.

Later, Doug


NEW INFO...

Harley was kind enough to sell me a set of NIB 250/350lb variable rate springs for an awesome deal!  THANKS HARLEY!   I replaced the 550lb springs with the new lower rate springs, and after about 100 miles of driving I'm sitting about 2" lower than stock.  I still have the spring seat at 4 turns up from the bottom.  I plan on lowering the coils all the way which should drop me close to another 0.5".  Not exactly the 3" I wanted but very close none-the-less.  After I get the front down, I'll measure again for the total drop acheived. 

Right now I have 3" blocks waiting to go in but I might have to switch to 2" blocks to keep the rear end from being lower than the front.  I've been considering getting the JTR set back plates, as they claim to center the wheel in the wheel well and give me an additional 3/8" drop.  With the 2" blocks and setback plates I'm looking at 2 3/8" total in the rear.  Any thoughts guys?

I'll try to get some pics of my new raked stance in the next couple days.

Later, Doug

I don't think you would need the set back plates with a 2" drop.

If you decide to to run the 2" I would like the 3" blocks.

So how is the ride quality and performance with those new springs?
Did you get single or  double adjustable QA1 shocks?

I don't think you would need the set back plates with a 2" drop.

If you decide to to run the 2" I would like the 3" blocks.

I was hoping to get the extra 3/8" drop with set back plates.  How desperate am I?  I would definitely sell you the 3" blocks but they're still new in the box and I'm just gonna return them and buy the 2" blocks and get some $$ back.  Hope you understand.

So how is the ride quality and performance with those new springs? Did you get single or double adjustable QA1 shocks?

It's hard to judge ride quality as I have a 2"-2.5" rake going on right now.  I have the single adjustable shocks.  I have them on 6 clicks from full soft and it seems just a tad bit harsh.  I'm going to adjust to 5 clicks and see how that goes.  It does seem to handle a little better around highway cloverleafs even with the 4x4 stance in the rear. 

Oh and if anyone has pics of a 2nd Blazer with a 2/2 or 2/3 drop with some 275/40-17's all around that would be awesome.

Later, Doug

I'm glad I finally found someone who needed those.  Don't thank me I'm glad to have money in my pocket and a clean shelf. 

I'm running 3" blocks with the setback plates, but I machined at least a quarter inch off the blocks to use the JTR beefy 3" U bolts with the setup.  I've had bad drifeshaft interferance at my 4.5" drop, so I recomend the setbacks for Blazers.

I've got a set of those set-back plates. I added another 1" to them because they were too small for the spring perch on the axle. They're also a waste of money, IMO. They don't really set the rear far enough back.

Well, I finally got the truck lowered as much as the $$ I had would allow.  Thanks to the wise people at GM (no offense Harley) but they decided that a 4x4 stance would be great for a 4x2 vehicle.  So even after lowering Project WTH it still only looks like it's been slightly lowered.

From the first post, here is the stock height...


Measurements for the Front Left...


Rear Left...


Front Right...


Rear Right...



With my new coil overs and 550lb/in springs with the spring seat at 4.25 turns from the bottom, the vehicle was still at stock ride height.

After getting the new 250/350lb/in coils from Harley and setting them at 4 turns from the bottom...


Front Left...


Front Right...



Here's the truck at it's final front ride height....at least until I can get more $$ for spindles or LCA.  This is with the 250/350lb/in coils and approximately 1/6 of a turn from the bottom...



Front Left...


Front Right...





I tried installing the 3" angled blocks from Belltech but the driveshaft was pushed all the way into the trans and I still couldn't get the locating pins to line up between the axle pads and the blocks.  So back to Summit and I got some 2" DJM blocks for $20 less.   After I get home and read the instructions (I know, who does that?) and DJM suggests getting block plates due to the narrow axle pads in the late S-series vehicles.  Not wanting to run back to Summit or spend any more $$ I decided that making my own would not be hard.  I found some 1/8" aluminum plate in my stash of scrap metal and went to work.  I don't know what alloy the aluminum is but it wasn't as light as you would think.



Finally after a bunch of $$ and several trips to Summit Racing, I got Project WTH lowered.  It's not as low as I wanted but it's close and I ran out of $$ to make it any lower this year.


I also couldn't help myself and threw on the 1" adapters and 2 of my Firehawk rims.  The 275/40-17 Goodyear racing tires with shaved tread really demostrates that I need to go a little lower to make it look right.




The front rim/tire sits close to flush with the fender...


But the rear rim/tire isn't as flush.  I plan on getting 1.25" spacers for the rear to fix that.


I also turned the front wheel lock to lock to check for rubbing and I have at least 0.5" clearance to the nearest point.

That's about all the updates I'll have for a while.  I still need to get my marine intake installed but I have to make the fuel injector wiring harness and all the fun stuff yet.

Later, Doug

Looks pretty neat being lowered & having those rims on it.

Looks pretty neat being lowered & having those rims on it.

Thanks I just need a pair of 1.25" spacers and a new set of tires and I'll be good to go.

Later, Doug

Oh and if anyone has a nice alignment setup that's more aggressive than stock, could you let me know?  I need an alignment since I lowered the truck and wanted something better than stock specs.  Thanks.

Later, Doug

Maybe it's the lighting in the picture, but those plates you made look like stainless steel to me (that looks like a #2B finish). Could explain the heavy weight you mentioned. Was it easy to drill out the hole?  Stainless is probably a better choice than aluminum anyway.
 5052 aluminum is pretty soft. T-6 aluminum would be my choice of aluminum, for that sorta application you have there. If those are indeed aluminum, make sure you check your torque every so often.

Those wheels look right at home on your truck.
Blazer is looking good.

Thanks to the wise people at GM (no offense Harley) but they decided that a 4x4 stance would be great for a 4x2 vehicle.

Haha it is a truck either way.    I still don't know why you are only getting a couple inches, but it just makes me realize how much effect my lower arms had and I had no clue at the time.

I really like the look of those firehawk wheels on there.  You're a right.  A bit lower and it would be perfect.

those plates you made look like stainless steel to me (that looks like a #2B finish). Could explain the heavy weight you mentioned. Was it easy to drill out the hole?  Stainless is probably a better choice than aluminum anyway.
 

I have other bits of 1/8" aluminum and the 5"x10" plate that I used weighed considerably more.  It could be SS as it was a bit harder to saw thru, file and drill than aluminum.  I just know it had the finish of aluminum and I got it from a scrap bin with a bunch of aluminum.

Later, Doug

Blazer is looking good!A bit more drop is in order!lol

I've been thinking about going with a 4x4 rear-end for a couple reasons.  1) Occasionally my rear diff clunks real hard, 2)I've had to remove the parking brake shoes because the parking brake mechanism is frozen solid in the backing plates, and 3) I wouldn't mind increasing the track width without using spacers.

The down side to a new 4x4 rearend is 1)I have to find a 8.5" so as to keep my stock drivesahft, 2)preferably find one with disk brakes, 3)preferably find one with posi, and 4) change gearing as the 3.73 ratio the 4x4 normally come with and the smaller diameter tires would cause about a 400rpm increase at 60mph.

Fock mockup reasons only, I doubled up my 1" spacers and mounted the stock rim and my Firehawk rim.  However I can't tell if I like the wheels pushed out 2" further.  What do you guys think?






Later, Doug

4x4 rear end with Camaro SS wheels



IMO dont get one with the G80 (govloc bomb) as they are known to grenade. Just get an eaton or auburn unit.

What size are those rear rims?  Mine are 17x9.5" with ~5.5" BS.  Also did you mean don't get the G80?

Later, Doug