1995 S10 Restoration & LSX Transplant

I think he's trying to say you need to mount the inner tie rods between the crossmember and the center link.

What a dumb arse, this is what happens when you insist on working on a project in 105-110 degree weather. Today makes day 38? in a row with 100+ temps. Thanks guys

It looks to me like you need to flip the center link to get the inner tie rods to the rear of the centerlink.

you need to switch which side the centrelink mounts to. you have the left side of the centrelink on the right side. unbolt both inner tie-rods and both sides of centrelink, and remount, then loosen adjusting sleeves and reassemble inner tie-rods

Here is the location chosen for the proportioning valve, not the master cylinder i'm running though.



Steering problem solved by orienting the center link correctly!

did you buy straight from cpw? this is the first ive heard of quality issues.
im suprised they have spatter... i assumed it was tig all around.
and why is the collector not a nice spike!?

60 lbs?  I don't think the core support weighs that much from the factory, but yes that will save you some weight and give a fancier looking core support.

I think it weighs well over 80lbs, but i couldn't say for sure i guess.

good point. never even considered that idea.
how do you clip the grill in though? with my recessed radiator the grill keeps popping out, so i might as well make an aluminum one

We made tabs for the sides and the bottom, and used rivets, and we also had a piece of aluminum sheet metal riveted across the top of the core support and the hood latch area. Hood latch is still functioning, but hood pins keep everything down and solid.

60 lbs?  I don't think the core support weighs that much from the factory, but yes that will save you some weight and give a fancier looking core support.

I think it weighs well over 80lbs, but i couldn't say for sure i guess.

GM says it weighs 23lbs and 10kg the two places I looked.

60 lbs?  I don't think the core support weighs that much from the factory, but yes that will save you some weight and give a fancier looking core support.

I think it weighs well over 80lbs, but i couldn't say for sure i guess.

GM says it weighs 23lbs and 10kg the two places I looked.

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I have two of them, feel like 20 lbs to me. 80 pounds? Nowhere close to it.

I've got to agree with this. I just sold a full core support with everything attached including a/c condensor. Even at that it was maybe pushing 60 lbs. There would be some weight savings with an aluminum one. The gain would be more pronounced as well as it's one of the most forward pieces on your truck. It wouldn't be near what you are anticipating however.

I was kind of surprised to see the pics of those cpw headers. For the time a lot of guys waited and the price I would be pretty disappointed as well. Any fitment issues yet? I remember reading a couple of guys complaining about that. Did you bring it up to the owner (jarred?)

I'm really looking forward to watching you do the rear.

Sorry, My Bad. Like I said it was a few years ago.

yay, steering is correct! that's exactly what i meant haha

Tonight the new master cylinder was installed, this is from the GMT360 line of GM vehicles and it relocates the outputs on the master cylinder to the inboard side. After lots of research this unit was picked because with a home made bracket the knob on the Wilwood proportioning valve fits into the recess of the fluid reservoir for a nice compact fit.

Obviously the lines to the proportioning valve are not typical...but this was done with space saving in mind. I've been a full size truck guy forever, its difficult working to space limitations for the first time. One of the goals this weekend is to make a new bracket for the proportioning valve to mount it lower and allow the lines to down and around vs. up and around.










Better picture of the adapter plate for the booster.



I need your guys help here, this is on the passenger side frame rail, two plugs on this harness, one goes to the impact sensor...help me find what the other connector plugs to!

 not sure which connectors you are talking about, but there is an impact sensor on each side, plus wheel speed sensors on each side.

also, since you ran line over your brake reservoir, bleeding all the air out will be a slightly more tedious process, as you will need to flow enough volume to flush the bubbles from the top.
not sure if there is a way to reroute the lines to have the reservoir at the very highest point in the system, but if you can, i would recommend it, as it will always self bleed some of the bubbles out that way.

not sure which connectors you are talking about, but there is an impact sensor on each side, plus wheel speed sensors on each side.

also, since you ran line over your brake reservoir, bleeding all the air out will be a slightly more tedious process, as you will need to flow enough volume to flush the bubbles from the top.
not sure if there is a way to reroute the lines to have the reservoir at the very highest point in the system, but if you can, i would recommend it, as it will always self bleed some of the bubbles out that way.

I was not going to leave the lines like that, going to make a new bracket to mount the proportioning valve lower.

On the harness, the connectors are for the impact sensor, ABS speed sensor, and a mystery connector. On the other side (harness travels in a loop) there is only a connector for the driver side impact sensor and speed sensor.

I can't see well in the picture. Can you circle where the mystery connector is? Also, what truck is this harness from?

could be for the AIR pump.  it's located by the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side.

Here is some better pics, tried posting from cell phone last night.









This morning I took it over to a friends shop for a transmission crossmember and a few other things.



Some of his handy work.

nice to see hydroboost installed, I will be following your installation =)

This week my truck arm mounts came in from Speedway Engineering, stuck everything together loose just to get an idea of the next steps. Already  I can see the trailing arm crossmember will need to be notched in the middle for the drive shaft.



These brackets are made for a 3" tube so unfortunately I should wait for the 9" axle housing before going any further.